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It looks like TAPLFO2 chips are now obsolete. Am I able to use a TAPLFO3 chip in the the Tapanator or will I need to track down the old TAPLFO2 chip?

Hello,
Is there a standard nomenclature to know if an SPST/SPDT is On/On or On/Off/On. I can usually tell by looking at the schematic, but this information isn't always available. I wish this information was just specified on the build doc or BOM...

I having trouble getting a vibe effect from my etched and assembled board. I followed the build doc without any deviations. The charge pump kicks out 18V. The board passes sound when hooked to my test rig. The lamp lights up fine and when I rotate the gain trimmer back and forth it changes the brightness of the lamp. Changing the lamp brightness also dampens the sound, which is how I think the vibe effect is done.

The weird thing is for a few seconds when voltage is first applied to the circuit, the lamp "vibes". However, the lamp eventually "locks up". I have R16 and R17 socketed, as suggested in the build doc. I tried values from 1k8 to 4k7, but that doesn't seem to help at all.

Does anyone have any experience with this circuit that could shed light on the problem?

I am getting a normal effect out of phaser A (right, component side up). Phaser B passes signal fine, but the pots have no affect on the rate or depth. The board has not been put in an enclosure yet, so the switches are not soldered in place. Would this be the cause? If not, are there specific components I should check?
Thanks,
Darin

Is the Choral Reef 2.1 board supposed to use PCB mount or solder lug SPDT?

Hello,

I'm having trouble with my UberTuber build. It passes sound, but sounds muffled/awful. I followed the BOM without knowingly making any modifications. The resistors and capacitors were all checked with a multimeter immediately before placing the component on the board. The volume knob and boost switch seem to do something. The other knobs don't seem to do much. The plate voltages (T1 and T2 below) are abnormally high, which suggests this is the problem. Unfortunately, I don't really know how to read a schematic to figure out which parts could be causing the issue. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Solder side:

Component side:


Test box voltage = +18.09
T1 = +17.54
T2 = +17.37
T3 = +11.5
T4 = +6.47

Thanks!
Darin

Gut:

Art:

Followed the BOM fairly closely. Used MLCC caps in places to keep the size down. I was able to stuff this into a 125B without too much fuss- just put the board in sideways. Also, I added a switch to lift R13 and cut the dry signal to give it a "vibe" effect. I'm a dummy and didn't realize I needed to keep a resistor in R13. Depending on the switch position, this resulted in the normal vibe effect or the most aggressive distortion/volume boost that I've ever heard from a pedal. It actually sounded pretty cool. Haha!

The Arion Chorus is probably best known for its pseudo Leslie effect. I actually think the ability to add base via the tone knob is its most unique and attractive quality.  I have a vintage Arion SCH-1 and a newish SCH-Z. I haven't had enough time to tell you how the clone compares sound wise. However, I can tell you that the clone certainly has a better build quality

Darin

I recently etched and assembled a Double Flush. Everything seems to be functioning properly with one notable exception... The 'Depth" pot is very weak. There is an audible tremolo effect only at max CW of the Depth pot. I've tried several vactrol combinations and ~10 different pots ranging from B10k to B1M. None of these changes affected (for better or worse) the tremolo effect.

Another strange thing is the board mounted rate LED intensity is inversely proportional to the vactrol LED, meaning when I crank the Depth knob, the rate LED dims and the vactrol LED gets slightly brighter. This doesn't bother me at all. I'm just wondering if this is a symptom related to the above problem.

Has anybody experienced anything like this? Are there particular components that I could replace to boost the Depth control?

Thanks!
Darin

I put together a SSBS Sparkle Motion board that I etched from here... https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2017/05/smallsoundbigsound-sparkle-motion.html#comment-form

However, the 10R keeps burning up when I plug it into 9V. I used a DMM to confirm that there are no ground faults, and continuity for all the pads seems good too. The diode and both electrolytic caps are properly oriented. Anybody know what might be going on here?

Original schematic for reference... http://smallsoundbigsound.blogspot.com/2011/05/sparkle-motion-schematic-and-updates.html

The module8 and Octagon use the same board and BOM apparently, so swapping EEPROMs should be work no problem. Similarly, the kaleidoscope, unison, threeVerb, pythagoras, and radium springs all seem to use the same board/BOM. I was wondering if anyone has taken an unmodded Octagon and swapped in a different EEPROM - for example Unison.

I just put an Octagon together last night. Sounds good with the matching EEPROM. I threw in a Unisom EEPROM. It didn't light on fire, and it makes noises that I assume sound similar to a Unison. Just wondering if there is a fatal flaw in the schematic that would never allow a Unison EEPROM to function properly in an Octagon board.

Can't say enough good things about this pedal. I wanted to throw my Fender HRD amp in the swamp...muffled, blah sound. This pedal woke that amp up! Bright and chimy cleans. The sourcing parts was fairly simple. The build was moderately challenging, but the instructions were superb. Fired up without any trouble shooting.

125BB enclosure
JJ 12AX7 tube
No deviations from BOM

https://imgur.com/HK0sRMA
https://imgur.com/glcau05

Art is a random image off the interwebs. Laser printer/polyacrylic transfer