Topics

I'm planning to build a NomNom phaser soon.  Since the pedal has just the one knob, there is a lot of open space on the enclosure to have some fun with the design. 

I have a few 10 mm LEDs and I thought about making a 3D eye coming out of the pedal.  I'm thinking about the best way to implement this, e.g.  clay or mold of some kind.  Has any one built something like this or know of a build report to reference? 

I'm planning on building the Aquaboy with the added modulation board.  Since the boards are stacked on each other, I'm wondering if shielding between them would be a good idea?  Haven't built it yet, so, don't know if this is a problem. 

I have built other stacked pcb designs (e.g., Dead End FX FL99) and LFO noise is definitely present.  I've been thinking some shielding might improve these too.

I'm wondering how to implement this, any advice appreciated.

Mouser finally restocked the slide switch and I was able to finish this up.  It's a really nice sounding pedal.

This is the second time I have bought an expensive enclosure and had a nightmare with the no film decal.  This box is from Mammoth, it took four applications to get something usable.  On the cheap Tayda boxes, the labels work like a charm every time.   I'm guessing different powder coats are better suited for the label adhesive.

This circuit is magical.  I got it fired up and played through it for an hour and half. Thanks to pierre67 for the recent post that peaked my interest and Apetone for creating this.   

Finished this one up this weekend.  No film decal on a Tayda box.  I would recommend to anyone planning to build this to place the jacks and the foot switch as low as possible.   It took me awhile to find just the right orientation of the jacks so I could get the cable tip in.  That waisted 1/4-1/2 inch on the bottom would have made everything much easier.

What settings on all the extra Choral Reef controls gets you closest to a Small Clone? 

Finally got this one finished.  I really love this pedal, It's a lot of fun.  The enclosure is polished metal with a no film decal.  I used right angle PCB mount pots.  I wasn't sure from the build docs that that would work.  It seemed like a trap, but it was fine. 



Tone Vent™

I was wondering if there was a best type of electro to use in the power section of circuits?  I got the idea from the VFE switching board that required a low-ESR electro.  I was just wondering if there are other "best type" electros to use in different parts of circuits. 

I have a pretty good stash of audio electros that I like to use in my builds.  I shop around, so, I usually buy a bunch when I can find them cheap.  I know there are a lot of opinions that any electros are fine, but I haven't found buying good caps in bulk to be that much more expensive.

I've been reading about BBDs and clocks recently and I ran across this research paper.  I wish more universities had a guitar FX department!

https://ant-s4.unibw-hamburg.de/dafx/paper-archive/2016/dafxpapers/14-DAFx-16_paper_59-PN.pdf

Invertiguy's recent "TurboFlange" post inspired me to get this working.  I built mine in a 1590XX.  I ordered most of the ICs and transistors from UTsource.  Here's a list of what I got, and what turned out to be real/working:

Part Number   Brand   Quantity   Price(USD)   Amount(USD)   
2SC1815(Y)   TOSHIBA   30   US $0.10   US $3.00   Fake
2SA1015Y   TOSHIBA   5   US $0.78   US $3.90   Fake
MN3204   PANASONI   2   US $3.94   US $7.88   Real
MN3102   PAN/MAT   5   US $0.60   US $3.00   Real
C4570C   NEC      4   US $0.60   US $2.40   Fake

It's funny the MN3204s and MN3102s were fine.  Also, I didn't go through all the parts that didn't work, might be that some were bad others were fine. C4570C is a low noise dual op-amp.  A lot guys on stereo forums are looking for these.  I'd recommend using something else.  I used my stash of OP2134s just to get it working.  I'll probably swap some of them out for TL072s and see if there is a noticeable difference.

I'm working on a de-bug of a flange right now.  I was just wondering if one of you BBD experts could give me a simple explanation of how the clock works.  The flange I'm looking at has a MN3102.  The data sheet has me thinking that the frequency of the clock is set by a resistor-capacitor network on  pins 5, 6, and 7 (no voltage required).  But knowing that the LFO is connected there, makes me think that it's voltage controlled.  How does this work?

Was wondering why wired pots are suggested in the build docs?  It seems like 9mm PCB mounted pots would work the same.  Am I missing something?

Hi all,

I need a 25kC pot for my next build, but I'm having trouble finding one.  Can I solder a 50k resistor across two legs of a 50kC pot as a work around?   

This was my first 1590A build.  Hats off to you guys that do these all the time.  It took me several iterations to get everything crammed in.

This was a fun build.  I had to do some part bending and modification to get it in a 125B with top mount jacks.  I also had to file the lip off one side of the enclosure lid to get it to close over the jacks.  But it works!

I biased the BBD by ear.  First pass, sound pretty good.  I'd like to dial it in with a scope, but I'm not quite sure how to set the pedal controls to get the best view of the BBD output.  I plan to play some more with it. 

This was my first VFE build. It's kind of lame to admit, but my favorite thing is the trimmer for the LED brightness.  Very cool solution, no more burnt retinas! 

I was wondering if anyone had some advice for biasing the Choral Reef with an O-scope? 

I'm not sure how to set up the 6 controls to measure.  I'd guess range=100%, speed=0, mix=50%, but I'm not sure about range switch, feed, or width controls.

I had a lot of trouble with this one, but I finally got it fired up! It was worth sticking it out, it sounds cool.

Thanks to scruffie for help with the debug!

Hey All,

I was wondering what is the right way to get rid of solder waste? 

I've been dumping the left over solder bits from my tip cleaner (brass scour-pad style) into a plastic bag.  I keep that bag in the garage next to my bag of used Li batteries, which I am also not quite sure how to get rid of!  

This one is my first FV-1 build.  Also, first time using the relay bypass (1776 FX - Finish Line).  Mounted the relay switch on the LED (tip from cooder, thanks!)

Really like this pedal, sounds great.  Also love the soft touch relay, it's going to be my new jam for future builds.

I was hoping for a violin type effect (hence the graphic) from this pedal.  Not sure it really gets me there.  Plan to build the Rustbucket next. In fact, people on this board suggested building the Rustbucket, but I couldn't resist tying this one first because the parts count was so low.

I've got an extra PCB, I'll put up on the PIF if anyone is interested.