Messages

I have a question, and this has been an issue on 2 of the 3 pedals I've enclosed.

When I print off the drill template (with no scaling), it does not necessarily line up with the enclosure.  The top, for example, is narrower than the enclosure top.  So when you drill the holes, they are a little too close together, for the pots.

I REALLY noticed this when doing my ZeroPoint SDX...that thing was a BEAR to get together...I was just wondering if I'm missing something, or if there is anything that will make it a little easier to get the drilling correct.

Thanks,
Bryan

From the BOM

"02.02.13 ­ Revision Omit R45 (1M). This will increase delay time and is not needed. To reduce the dry volume, change R3 to 470k."

Have you done the R3 mod? I found it sorted my volume issues out.

I feel like an idiot...because I DID do the R45 mod, but didn't do the R3...mainly because I didn't really notice the hair it was adding until I was in the studio recording scratch tracks and heard some fuzz on the monitors sitting in the control room.  It was such a tight squeeze I'm really not looking forward to disassembling this thing to fix it :lol:

I'll pick my pedal up from the practice space tomorrow and give it a shot...Thanks for reminder!

Hey guys, I had my ZPSDX in the studio last weekend and noticed that it was actually adding some hair to my clean signal.  Upon further inspection, there is a noticeable boost in volume when the effect is engaged, it does not matter what switches are on or where the knobs are at...It's always there.  In looking at the schematic, would the R6 10k resistor be the resistor to change for output volume?  How would one going about swapping in a trim pot there instead, if that is in fact the correct resistor?

Thanks a lot!

Bryan

Got a board on the way -- I actually unclenched my wallet for the low profile jacks and also power connector! (I used tayda ones on my 1590a builds.)

Hopefully a bit of file work will fix things for you

Yeah, I used those suggested parts too, from
Small bear.

I realized my enclosure is actually a 1590NS...but still I think it should be fine. That said, I'm sure I misdrilled. It's really hard to get the template right where it needs to be when the edges don't line up with the box exactly. Live and learn, doesn't need to be pretty for me because I'm gonna be using the hell out of it!

Man, the box for this thing is so tight, I must have misdrilled or something because with the momentary slam
Switch there's no room for the slim jack, and the power jack
Runs into rate pot...sigh

Have you reflowed all he solder joints? How do the joints on the selector look?

I'll be damned, must have had a bad joint or something somewhere, because it works like a champ now! Gotta mess with a few socketed resistors though, because the feedback pot gets into oscillation way too soon for me.

Have you reflowed all he solder joints? How do the joints on the selector look?

I haven't reflowed every joint but I've actually removed the selector to make sure I had it aligned correctly and resoldered it, so it's good. I'll try to reflow everything real quick and see what happens!

Here are my voltage readings.

Read from pin 1 to the bottom of the chip, across the chip, then bottom to top...

IC1
1: 4.59   5: 4.59
2: 4.60   6: 4.59
3: 4.59   7: 4.59
4: .006   8: 9.20

IC2 & 3 (same readings)
1: 4.90   9:   2.456
2: 2.45   10: 2.459
3: .006   11: 2.459
4: .006   12: 2.456
5: 2.853 13: 2.459
6: 2.446 14: 2.459
7: .656   15: 2.459
8: .680   16: 2.459

IC4
1: 4.60    8: 4.60
2: 4.60    9: 4.60
3: 4.17   10: 4.60
4: 9.20   11: .006
5: 4.56   12: 4.60
6: 4.60   13: 4.60
7: 4.60   14: 4.60

IC5
1: bounces between 2-6
2: 4.60
3: 4.08
4: .006
5: between 2-6
6: 4.60
7: 8.6 falls to 4.??, down to 0, then back up to 8.6 and then repeats
8: 9.20

Thanks again,
Bryan

UPDATE: I just got done clipping R45, because I missed that note the first time.  After playing it again, here's what I found.

Positions 2 and 4 on the rotary (considering the "down position" as 1, and each consecutive move up the rotary as 2, 3, 4...Shimmer and Analog, I suppose) DO give me repeats, and they sound fantastic...Holy crap I could use this pedal just like this and be happy) and even when I turn the path switch to the left, I still get all my repeats.

HOWEVER, when I go to position 1 or 3, I only get the 1 repeat, if the path switch is to the right, and 0 delay at all if the path switch is to the left.

Frustrating, but hopefully you all can help.

Thanks so much,
Bryan

Hey guys, I just finished up my Zero Point SDX build, and went back over the documentation before I fired it up to verify everything was correct.  Everything appeared to be correct.  I went and hooked it up in my test box, before I boxed it up, and realized I was only getting one repeat.  The delay knob works, as I can adjust the time it takes for that one delay to happen.  The feedback knob works, mix knob, rate and depth both work.  The switches also seem to be fine, except for the Path switch.  When I flip that to the other side, all I get is the dry signal.

Was hoping to use this box when my band hits the studio next weekend, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys!

-Bryan

I actually had this same problem...It was frustrating.  What did it for me, is the resistor that is on the volume pot (I want to say lug 2, but I could be wrong...I pulled that and just used a wire to bridge the connection.  Now unity gain is at about 2-3 o clock, and quite a bit of boost if I turn it all the way up.

EDIT: Checked the schematic and it's R10 I believe...pull the resistor and just use a wire...let me know if that helps, because I'm pretty sure that's what I did.  I can check for sure when I get home.

You all are awesome! Thanks so much for the help and suggestions.

I'm just getting into this DIY pedal thing, and I'm pretty sure judging by the 40+ PCBs I've bought from Brian that I just dove head first.

The mudbunny is my 3rd pedal.  The first one I did was the pastyface.  Then I got curious and did a Suhr Riot vero board that, much to my surprise, worked on the first try.  I haven't looked at how much money I've spent yet, and probably won't...Between the PCBs and the thousands of components, I'm sure I'd rather not know lol!!!

Seriously though, thanks for the suggestions, I will look into these tools!

-Bryan

Haha, thanks man.  I just wanted to make sure! 

I do dig the flexibility, but hell, fully clockwise is unusable unless ones ears are broken 

So I just completed the mudbunny build, and I'm having the same problem I had on my Pastyface build too...Hoping someone can guide me to some answers.

When using the tone control, and going all the way to the treble side, all of the bass is sucked out...To me, it seems like it should just add treble to the mix, instead of add treble and cut bass.  It seems most distortion pedals I've used are setup this way, so that it doesn't sound ballless on the treble side.

Is this how the tonestack is supposed to work?  Is there a mod I could do in order to fullfill my quest for bass staying on the treble side?

Thanks all!