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This seemed to do the trick - many thanks for your help guys and for the project/board, Brian!

I really love how the Current Lover was done. That is a super clever box layout for this one.

Many thanks. I was only inspired to do it as I only have Eddystone B and BB enclosures to hand and the board is a weeny bit too wide to fit into a B, but I'm really happy with how it came out, there's something nice about the clean space to the side of the board from a gutshot POV (I know, I really need to get out more) and the controls are all placed lovely.

check the BOM from your build pic at least I think you forgot to jumper C5

That'd do it 

Couldn't spot that from the voltages as it's sat at 0V anyway but yeah that would cause your issue.

Just for future reference, the 1N4001 swap for 1N4007 is fine, it's just that section has a habit of acting weird and a 1N4148 is a faster diode (yet still 0.6fV) so it can solve issues with that portion locking up and the clock not modulating properly.

Many thanks to eveyrone for looking into this. Will solder in a jump into C5 and get back with hopefully a positive result! Thanks also for the diode recommendations, if I see issues with that I'll get a 4148 in there

Cheers
M

You're absolutely right, I haven't jumped that at all - I just read the omit part of the instructions. I'll try that and report back!

Many thanks, fingers crossed!

Thanks for the reply

yes I've tried setting the clock trimmer to various points in it's range but I'm not sure how this could be the issue - if you read above you'll see I can confirm the LFO/VCO is running in either the state when I'm getting no flanging or the flanging state. I still get the effect that when I start the pedal up after it being not plugged in I get only straight signal and no flange, and I have to back off the bias trim all the way and the reset it to get flanging. This only happens if the power has been removed.

I should have been more clear in that I have a 1n4001 in the VCO section in place of the specified 1n4007, but I doubt this is causing issues?

I will double check my caps (again) but I'm fairly sure that nothing is in backwards.

Bump?

I've tried that and no luck. After more investigation by checking on pin7 of the LM311 I can find that the LFO is running in the "working" and "non working" states of the pedal.

The bias setting of the trimpot when I can get flange (or when not working on power up) is giving 3.7V ish on pin3 of the MN3007. So the bias setting looks fine when the flange is occuring or otherwise.

The other MN3007 pins when it's working are:

1 - 8.6
2 - 4.2
3 - 3.7
4 - 0
5 - 0
6 - 4.2
7 - 5.6
8 - 5.6

When it's not flanging, these are the same except pins7 &8 drop to 5.2V

The LM311 voltages are alwats:

1 - 0
2 - 1 to 5V
3 - 1 to 3V
4 - 0
5 - 8.6
6 - 8.6
7 - 3 to 6V
8 - 8.6V


What I'm finding is that when I turn on the power the pedal just passes normal signal and no flange, unless I reset the trimpot by bringing it down to around 1.1V and I can hear a sort of pop or click, then I bring it back up to provide 3.6-3.8V on MN3007 pin3 and I get flange. Bias trim has 4.4V on pin3.

This is driving me nuts. Is there anything else I can check or change? The only sub I have made in the are is a 1n4001 for a 1n4007 around the clock trimmer...

Any chance of trying another mn3007?

I've tried two that work fine in a small clone build that exhibit the same issue in my current lover

Please help!

Maybe it's not the lfo not starting but that the mn3007 won't bias up until I tweak the bias pot down from its max and back up again. What does that suggest? Any readings I can take or tests I can do?

That's not the problem though - it doesn't start ok on power up and then stop after a bit - on power up the LIFO won't start unless I tweak the bias trim

Hi all

After boxing up my Current Lover I've realised that from a cold turn on (and if I remove the power for more than 20 seconds or so) - the LFO will not start functioning unless I turn the Bias trim from what normally allows flanging (which is all the way towards the bottom of the board) up and then back to that extreme position.

Does anyone know what might cause this? It's extremely annoying as I love the pedal be can't be tweaking the trims every time I want it to "wake up". Is there something odd about my BIas trimmer needing to be at the extreme to allow flanging?

I've heard talk of C18 needing to be messed with, but could this cause this?

It's a really odd failure type and I would appreciate all the help/advice I can get

Thanks
M

This was a fun one, went together nicely and biased up relatively simple. A really great project and I'm very happy with the result. My decal designer whipped me up another EHX homage to match my DMM/Dirtbag









Many thanks Brian

Awesome. Glad to here of a successful v3205 build. Do you still have noticable distortion and biasing issues? Maybe you could post a demo soon?

thanks

Yeah I'll try and knock up a demo soon. When I was first trying to bias it using my desk power supply I was getting a lot of nasty distortion I couldn't dial out and I was quite upset but when I got it on a decent daisy chain (I use the johnny shred freak supply which is very similar to the Diago Power Station) it was much happier and biased up nice and clean. I now have it sounding nice and clean and also able to self oscillate aswell.

Thanks! It's now finished:









Really happy with how it came out - a beautiful sounding delay.

Thanks, I should be putting some TL072s in and getting this boxed up shortly - to be honest I can't wait!