Messages

Two caps and a switch make the mod - .012µf (12nf) and a .022µf (22nf). If the switch is closed the .022µf cap is added in parallel to the .012 for a total .033µf (the stock value)
Since you want wet bass always on - you just want the .012µf cap, and I suggest you socket it.

Sorry for the ridiculously late reply, but thanks a whole bunch Clay. It worked out great!

Lawrence is the best. His enclosure are great and a wonderful price too. His Kilo International knobs he has had were a great find too. I get most of our "hardware" type stuff from him. His Ohnoho pedals are fun too. While they're pretty simple design wise, they are a good time. Also his demo videos are the best; especially the one for his "blowing up" booster! Get on his mailing list. He sends out one message a month with store updates plus he always adds a funny/interesting video at the end

I am trying to add a mix pot but I am not sure how to wire it. What should I do with lugs 1, 2, and 3 of the 250kC to wire it in series with R27 like in the CE-2B Bass Chorus?

Thanks Paul, I socketed C17 and tried a .012 uF capacitor and it sounds great. Thanks for the information about how the wet mod works...my circuits knowledge is rusty and developing.

I'm still playing around with the depth. Can someone explain what R39 does and how it relates to the depth? Or, looking at the tone pad chorus intensity mod I could lower C18 (in the PB) to get deeper intensity. Any recommendations for increasing the depth of the pork barrel?

[when the dwell is at zero and the echo is at max it there is no clean repeat]

Last summer I built a Cave Dweller and let a friend who plays in a one man band borrow it for a while. During one of his shows some water or beer was spilled in his gear. The Cave Dweller stopped working.

The problem is when the dwell is at zero and the echo is at max it there is no clean repeat like there should be. The filtered repeats are being sent back to the input and oscillating when dwell is turned up. I checked the voltages on the PT2399, nothing looked out of the ordinary.

1. 4.93 V
2. 2.46 V
3. 0 V
4. 0 V
5. 2.81 V
6. 2.46 V
7. 0.71 V
8. 0.73 V
9-16. 2.46 V

The voltage regulator looks fine too...
1. 4.95 V
2. 0 V
3. 9.33 V

I'll play around with my audio probe some more tomorrow, so far I have audio coming into the PT2399 on pin 9 and coming out on 12,14, and 15.

I am building a few pork barrels. Someone requested that I make one suited for bass. There are a few things I want to try with these boards.

1. The LFO mod, I like the greater depth but with the LFO indicator I've found that the sound is a bit choppy...I'm not sure how to describe it but it's not as smooth as without the LFO indicator. So I just omitted R39 and I have the depth without the choppiness. I also tried putting a 22k resistor in R39...similar effect to omitting the resistor. Any recommendations for getting a deeper, smooth chorus...omitting R39, replacing it with a larger resistor value?

2. I took a look at the tone pad mods. I want to do the wet bass mod but I don't want to add a switch. I want it to be wet all the time the pedal is engaged. The mod shows two capacitors in parallel. With a switch in series with one of the capacitors. I thought I could just add the value of the capacitors and the sum would be the value capacitor I want...but that would give me a .033 uF capacitor which is what the tonepad build guide calls for...so that can't be right. Anyone know how to hardwire the tonepad wet bass mod without the switch?

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=101

I am building a few pork barrels. Someone requested that I make one suited for bass. There are a few things I want to try with these boards.

1. The LFO mod, I like the greater depth but with the LFO indicator I've found that the sound is a bit choppy...I'm not sure how to describe it but it's not as smooth as without the LFO indicator. So I just omitted R39 and I have the depth without the choppiness. I also tried putting a 22k resistor in R39...similar effect to omitting the resistor. Any recommendations for getting a deeper, smooth chorus...omitting R39, replacing it with a larger resistor value?

2. I took a look at the tone pad mods. I want to do the wet bass mod but I don't want to add a switch. I want it to be wet all the time the pedal is engaged. The mod shows two capacitors in parallel. With a switch in series with one of the capacitors. I thought I could just add the value of the capacitors and the sum would be the value capacitor I want...but that would give me a .033 uF capacitor which is what the tonepad build guide calls for...so that can't be right. Anyone know how to hardwire the tonepad wet bass mod without the switch?

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=101

Jon you are the best! I replaced C48 and I replaced D4 and D5....now I have a beautiful multitude of repeats pouring out of my ZPSDX. Thanks again. This one repeat issue has been ailing me for months.

Now to find the source of the one repeat issue in the Cave Dweller I am working on...

Same problem, two delays. Isn't that strange? I used different potentiometers for both pedals too.

So last night when I checked I thought there was an audio signal on lug 2 of the fdbk pot but I checked just now and there is no signal there. The signal is faint as it goes through R41, it is going into C48 but it is not passing through C48 into the fdbk pot. What should the signal sound like through R41?

I used a big 100V greenie for C48 . Do you think that type of cap may be causing a problem? I have used the same cap in other ZPSDXs that work...I'm not sure if I should just replace C48 with a different greenie or if I should get a different type of 220 nF capacitor.

I used my audio probe to verify that the signal is going through the feedback pot and it is. I am stumped.

Does anybody have any ideas as to the source of the problem of one repeat in a delay? I am also having this problem with a Cave Dweller I built. I have successfully put together both the ZPSDX and the Cave Dweller in the past...but this one repeat issue is getting the best of me.

Help please. Before I pull out all of my hair.

Here are some pics...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryanisradd/sets/72157638367024426/

When the path switch is off there is one repeat delay. When the path switch is on there is a filtered one repeat delay.

On the PT2399 chips I have the audio signal on pins 15,14, and 12 but not 16 and 13. Should there be an audio signal on pins 13 and 16? I tested this against a different ZPSDX that I think is working and did not have an audio signal on pins 13 and 16 on the PT2399 chips. What should it sound like on pins 13 and 16?

I didn't think that the one repeat issue would come from the filtering section. I checked the audio signal in the output pins of the TL074 and there is a signal but again, one repeat. I used the continuity test on my DMM to verify that the pins connecting the rotary switch do not have solder bridges.

Here are the voltages for the chips:

IC1 – TL072
1. 4.72 V
2. 4.72 V
3. 4.71 V
4. 0 V
5. 4.72 V
6. 4.72 V
7. 4.72 V
8. 9.43 V

IC2 – PT2399
1. 4.94 V
2. 2.48V
3. 0 V
4. 0 V
5.  2.92 V
6. 2.47 V
7. 0.7 V
8. 0.72 V
9. 2.48 V
10. 2.48 V
11.2.48 V
12. 2.47 V
13. 2.48 V
14. 2.49 V
15. 2.48 V
16. 2.48V

IC3 – PT2399
1. 4.94 V
2. 2.47 V
3. 0 V
4. 0 V
5. 2.92 V
6. 2.46 V
7. 0.68 V
8. 0.70 V
9. 2.47 V
10. 2.47 V
11. 2.47 V
12. 2.46 V
13. 2.47 V
14. 2.47 V
15. 2.47 V
16.2.47 V

IC4 – TL074
1. 4.66 V
2. 4.66 V
3. 4.23 V
4.  9.35 V
5. 4.65 V
6. 4.66 V
7. 4.66 V
8.  4.66 V
9. 4.7 V
10.  4.7 V
11. 0 V
12. 4.7 V
13. 4.67 V
14. 4.67 V

There is something wrong with the feedback on my Zero Point SDX. The ghost switch, the slam switch, and the feedback pot do not work.

I have checked my wiring, parts, and soldering numerous times. I have measured the voltages of the pins of IC1 (TL072) and IC2, IC3 (PT2399) with nothing unusual. I traced the signal with an audio probe and found that there was only one repeat in pin 7 (output) of IC1. I replaced the TL072 and still have only one repeat in pin 7 (output) of IC1.