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If the two input caps were in series, removing one would stop all signal. If you've removed one of the capacitors and are getting sound, they must be in parallel. When capacitors are in parallel, the capacitance adds. So removing one of the input caps means you reduced the capacitance.  Reduced capacitance will increase the cutoff frequency for the high pass filter formed by the RC network at the input. Basically, removing a cap will reduce the amount of bass getting into the circuit. How much will depend on the values of the two caps.

Ah right okay, I remember figuring out that it was one based on some series parallel value calculator site but I couldn't remember which sorry. And yeah that's why I went messing with the capacitors to attempt to cut the muddyness (that and everything else was surface mount)

If the two input caps were in series, removing one would stop all signal. If you've removed one of the capacitors and are getting sound, they must be in parallel. When capacitors are in parallel, the capacitance adds. So removing one of the input caps means you reduced the capacitance.  Reduced capacitance will increase the cutoff frequency for the high pass filter formed by the RC network at the input. Basically, removing a cap will reduce the amount of bass getting into the circuit. How much will depend on the values of the two caps.

It looks like it had a total of 110nf on the input. That's just weird. For guitar, I would cut it down to about 47n, but socket to see what you like.


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I think I have it at 10nf now which sounds fine, I might put the second capacitor on a switch so I can turn it on if I want to use it on bass

Plug a guitar cable into the input
Turn it on
Check for DC between the tip and sleeve with a multimeter
0DC and you're likely good.

Just got home and checked, it was like 0.001. All seems fine, thanks for the help

You're likely correct.
They probably have a single board made for all the transistor reissues and place the carrying parts on it once it's in NYC to make the different versions.
IIRC, in the bass bmp, they just added another 100 cap on top of/parallel to the existing one, and that kinda looks like what they did on that board as well.
A simple resistance check between the pads would confirm that

Ah right fair, so it's probably fine to leave it off?

Could you post the schematic you're working from? That'll make it easier to see what exactly you've changed.

It's just the green russian reissue, I assume it's this one but with two capacitors at c1 in series. Or parallel idk
http://www.bigmuffpage.com/images/schematics/V7_V8_BMP_Schematic_TallFontRussian_BubbleFontRussian.jpg

https://sc1.musik-produktiv.com/pic-010098988_02xxl/electro-harmonix-green-russian-big-muff.jpg
^that's not mine (I'm not at home rn) but you can see c1a and c1b at the bottom of it

Hi, I got a green russian reissue a while back and while I love it, it seemed pretty bassy which didn't work with my already borderline too bassy eq on my amp. I went messing about with it but nothing really worked for me until I disconnected the c1a cap (I replaced it with a huge poly capacitor which came loose and I liked it a lot more when it wasnt connected)

Is there any real problem with having this capacitor disconnected? I assume c1b is still doing the dc current thing (still a noob sorry lol), so it should be fine right?

Well that's weird, I changed a capacitor, nothing happened. So then I put it back together and it seems to be working normally now. Strange

Hi, i did the c11 mod and a mod that switches between one octave down and two to my blue box, and they both work, but now whenever it's switched off I can hear a little bit of fuzz under the bypassed signal when it's turned off. I've use insulating tape on the backs of the switches and even on the jacks (it seemed to get worse when the two octave down switch was near them) and nothing has worked. Has anyone any ideas what could be the problem? I'll try these other switches I have to see if it's a bad switch or something

Sorry to hijack the thread with a noob question, but is it possible to wire the aion boards directly to a switch without using the daughter board?

In general, yes.  For some boards, Aion sells a "legacy" version that was designed for 1590B enclosure and doesn't have the daughter board.  You have to dig on Kevin's website but they're there.  For PCBs with daughter boards, you'll need to see what else is on the daughter besides foot switch connections - typically there's an LED current limiting resistor, some power protection/filtering, sometimes other stuff.  You can make a vero or perfboard with these items on it if you need the functionality without the daughter board.  The advantage to that is you can tuck a vero underneath the main PCB and save the space around the foot switch.

Fair enough, thanks for asking. I haven't yet got my head around vero but I'll take a look at the legacy boards

Sorry to hijack the thread with a noob question, but is it possible to wire the aion boards directly to a switch without using the daughter board? I get the feeling this is a stupid question but I might as well ask