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Really cool. Each time.

Thanks! I'm pretty pleased with it.



I guess I didn't really comment on the circuit itself, reading it again, heh.

I do like the overdrive quite a bit. I know it's an oldie, but I do appreciate moving the bass and mid controls to trimmers in the rev. 1. I went with the intended IRF transistors, since blearyeyes kindly included them, and first time figured why not keep it vanilla. Sounds great and I might build something like it again.

[EDE]

Working through my backlog of boards, I remembered I received this PiF from blearyeyes this last holiday, so I set to work. Sparkplug. Well, given my fixation with Fallout, the first thing that came to mind was actually Sparks from Fallout 4's Automotron DLC, but then I decided to play to type and pick an eyebot from New Vegas

ED-E

 

A pre-war relic, sent from the east, detouring in Chicago before finally making its way towards Navarro: the last bastion (fight me) of the Enclave. ED-E took a .308 round cruising down through the Mojave, before being picked up by passing courier who picked it up and dropped it off at the Mojave Express office in Primm. In the hands of another, it would be repaired to working order and accompany the fated "Courier Six" on their journeys. Companion, pack mule, defender, eDog, it was the only one who never complained about the questionable actions carried out by the courier, with them until the end.





This one was comparatively spur-of-the-moment, which thankfully came out 99% as intended. I suspect one of monojack holes was milled slightly larger than the other, hence the asymmetrical protrusions. I think it just slipped over the annular ring on the input jack.

I toyed with a few enclosure color options, but when looking at Tayda's "cream", I converted the approximate Pantone to HEX and that sealed the deal: #EDE9AD I kid you not.

Thanks for looking.

aww yiss

I've got a decent station and aside from cleaning and re tinning tips and confidence in temperature, the only problems I've run into are old project boards where there's heavy oxidation on the pads/vias. At least heavy enough to give me issues but would eventually take.

I know a lot of folks only use what's in the core, but the answer for me when it comes to "how much flux?" is always "yes"

The tub I've got has lasted a long while and does a great job. Bit harder in winter and have to warm it with my desk lamp.

I've been using 60/40 solder since day one and I don't trust the "rosin flux core" any more than I can see it with the naked eye. Still good stuff, though.

Anyway, got off track.

I'd check/test to see if you're actually getting the indicated temps.

Not sure solder can go off. It can get slightly oxidized on the surface, but once melted and with flux applied there shouldn't be any issues.

Alright, back for more sanity checking... I haven't done an older MBP board in a very long time, and I want to make sure I do it right—the documentation doesn't have anything from the time, so I'm going off newer MBP wiring diagrams and other contemporary projects for reference.

So the traditional wiring, directly to the switch, looks like this, correct?




So if I was to use a switch PCB, would it look something more like this? just leaving the "L" pad as-is, because voltage is already supplied to the LED, and engaging the effect would be connecting the anode to ground, based on the traces of that particular bypass board?

Not much better here in Germany.

The problem with Musikding is that they only do kits. The sell the stuff from Aion and PedalPCB and Lectric and so on, but only as kits. That's much more expensive than buying PCBs when you're stocked up on everything else.
And additionally, they don't even have all the parts for the PCBs of which they sell kits (the proper LDRs for PedalPCB's Harmonic Trem come to mind, or 1k trimmers for some of their fuzzes).

That's frustrating...

It is incredibly frustrating on all sides. My European orders have dropped significantly over the last 2-3 years, as well.

If you were to have a EU distro and dropshipped from the pcb house, would that help?

Comment from the peanut gallery, but it sounds like an opportunity for an enterprising eurobean member—if all parties are in agreement and it works out to be beneficial.

Sorry having a lot of forum problems.
It seems to vary, right now the forum appears grey/blue and works only from my PC

In the past weeks its varied from this colour to a brown colour etc and will or wont let me login or post
including saying I am banned etc. I dont recall ever being banned before

Apologies if considered spam, and feel free to delete.

If anyone knows the latest, PM me?

nah, it's all in good fun. My 'comedian' jab was at jwin   also I'm not funny, so it's a self burn, too.

I've had intermittent issues, mostly the main page showing up as another member being logged in. Clicking any link on the page went back to me, but the main page would still be someone else.

There's the running thread which you might've already seen, as well: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=35257.0

I cleared my cookies and cache for the domain, and like say, it's been mostly smooth. Running Firefox. YMMV

Interestingly it's been flawless on Firefox for Android so, idk

I heard there was a test for comedians? Did I come to the right thread?

One other thing that's been in my head is the DRC rules for whomever you're sending this to for fabrication. Should be easily found with an internet search.

E.g. I searched for "eagle drc file jlcpcb" and got a 2-layer file that I've been using for a while now for things I send to JLC.

That'll help to make sure your files aren't kicked back because of incorrect spacing or borders—the ground plane and those two pads at the bottom look really close to the edge of the board boundaries, mainly.

Those trace widths look quite thin. Are they 5 or 6 mil? My personal preference is 10mil for audio and 24mil for DC.

+1 for this ^^^

Wow, that thing must put off some serious heat.

During a show, cranked, definitely. The chassis has a fan!

Thanks. Haven't gotten much sleep so my brain is in "what does the picture say" mode

Some FET heatsinks are nuts! Here's the output board from my gbe-250 bass head. The big ol ones have screw holes right through them.

My brain is playing tricks on me and wanting to rather be safe and ask a dumb question than sorry, I'd like to double check:

The solid/thick line in the PCB drawing is the mounting tab (that needs to be clipped off), correct?

You cannot view this attachment.

Looking to reduce footprint area on a project by using a sub-mini toggle, but have ran into issues in the past. Anyone know of a sub-mini lever toggle that has longer pins? It's a challenge to both mount it with enough threads to secure it and get a good solder joint (barely seats into the hole at all).

That's at least the case with standard PC-mount pots, anyway. Probably no issues with off-board, but I kinda want to avoid that more than I want to avoid using a regular DPDT footprint.

Thanks.

very nice indeed

intrigued by the envelope modulation; sounds great