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Those were EOL 3 years ago. Very well could be a bit of oxidation by now.

1)try cleaning them with some isopropyl
2)could be ground plane sucking up heat.
3)like Jessenator said, lil flux

It very well could be the nature of the component as well. Maybe a thicker, more robust foil or something of the like that's being a heat sink.
Are these the caps they discontinued because they could get their magic foil any longer(along with the awesome QYX films)?

And, at least for me, on mobile I have to switch to desktop view to add photos as the reply button doesn't populate on the mobile page

Bobert has some
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/6-6-1/

Thanks Brain! 

AC127s over 100 hFE are definitely in the group of "good" assuming they're leakage isn't crazy. Spec was 50+ iirc.
Depending on the circuit, some need moderate leakage in certain positions(TB) but most circuits need low leakage (FF).
If you plan on subbing a Ge into Si circuits, which is fine, you want low to no leakage and you'll possibly need to bias them manually so maybe breadboard it.
I'm not going to write up an article because so many have already been done way better than I could.

See "anatomy of the fuzz face" series
Good old write up from smallbear
http://diy.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/FuzzFaceFAQ/FFFAQ.htm
And endless threads at diysb, many missing graphics...

Also' I'd say take anything recommending a particular hFE as a basic guideline. staying +/- 20-25% can work just fine but mind the ratios. So, if you see Q1 hFE as 80 and Q2 hFE as 120 recommended for a fuzz, don't be afraid to try a pair at 100/145 or 65/95.  hFE(DC/current amplification) isn't even a firm spec for our use, instead we should be concerned with hfe, which is small signal amplification. But it's waaay easier to measure hFE. And in modern devices, they're pretty linear to one another.
It seems, from my personal observations, that this isn't always the case for older devices, both Ge and Si trannies produced with older difussion or even early planar production techniques.  All that being said, mind your leakage, check your bias and believe your ears.

Hello @Droogie,
A bit of a longshot as this is such an old topic but, did you ever get your problem fixed, I seem to be getting the exact same problem...  High pitched whine, some oscillation interaction with guitar signal and all controls seem to work as they should, most certainly too much gain and it's rather spluttery...

Cheers

Does it happen with
A)no guitar plugged in
B)as the only pedal in the chain
C)with a dedicated power supply/battery?
If it's happens in all three of those instances, it's either the board or your wiring.
If it only happens when not on a dedicated supply/only pedal, it's probably the charge pump interacting with a other charge pump that operates on a similar frequency.

Welcome (back)!

ah bugger, I missed the Woodstork.

I got 2. Can send one your way.

Boiling gravy takes a certain kind of masochist who loves forearm blisters. And lumpy gravy. Simmer that shit.
Anyway. I guess I'll go ahead and add to the stack and pay a conviennce fee to the blue shorts. But I could use some more square wave in my life if ya know what mean Vern.
Oh. Brian, I think you mentioned butcher block for your shelving/bar along the wall. Take a peak at lumber liquidators in madison.
Also. Super Home Surplus in Madison has Birch butcherblock. Heard it has better sustain.

https://hitfilm.com/express

There's definitely a learning curve to that, though. Fortunately they have a lot of great tutorials.

Your url path is redirected to another url

Probably because Obama was still in office when they posted it.

If all it is powering is the LED, should be fine I would think. The "LED only" 4007 is interesting as well.
Was their an AC powered lamp in there previously? And the 4007 is a crude rectifier for alternate led use?

I'm going to guess that they went with a fusible resistor for temperature protection, or more likely over temp indication. So, if that resistor gets warm enough(via the amp), it opens and your indicator turns off.
Or maybe it is to protect if the jewel is broken and the circuit is shorted?
This makes more sense if a bulb was used vs an led. Though the 22R seems as it may be sacrificial as well.
Ohhh. On second/third thought, maybe it's for temperature stability. Those nichrome resistors are stable at muuuuch higher temps.
Is this portion of the board exposed to high temps when in use? Maybe the same PCB is used in higher wattage amps where this is more of a concern. If it's not getting heated, I don't think there's much downside in using a standard film resistor. Maybe use a wire wound to safeguard against higher temps if that's a concern.

I think it's common practice but I don't think it is required by any means. At least practically. Theoretically, maybe there's a reason. But with a good power source, the large cap should really be redundant and ripple should be minimal to start so it is only acting as a "reservoir" at that point.

I would go strings first, especially if it sounds dark accousticly. Have you tried lowering the pickups?
I'd also check the capacitance of your cable. Or at least try a different cable. Maybe try guitar>a short patch cable>buffer>rest of the rig.
Higher capacitance cables will eat up your high end, especially on longer cables.
If you need new cable, the BTPA house brand is wonderful and very affordable
https://btpa.com/Bulk-Product/Cable/Guitar-Line-LevelBP/