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I build my Total Recall awhile ago and everything works basically, but I noticed when I was doing the biasing that there was no point where I can get both a strong signal and also eliminate all the distortion.

I left it and figured it was good enough. But as I've played with it some more, it's becoming more of a frustration.

If I have the level knob at unity gain and play lightly, everything is cool.

But if I hit the strings harder, I get a really ugly distortion on the first and every repeat.

I can turn the level down to a point where everything sounds nice and clean, but then I need to add makeup gain after the Total Recall to get everything back up to unity.

I'm guessing that I must have messed something non *critical* when I built it, since it does work aside from this annoyance. I vaguely remember using a non-polar for one of the caps instead of the polar called for. Is it possible that would do it?

Is there anything else I can check... maybe I pulled a wrong resistor or something? Can anyone point me to the most likely candidates to check?

Thanks so much! This is exactly what I was looking for. I still don't see it anywhere in the docs, but thank you!

I did just finish my Klein Bottle. Literally just got done testing each loop to make sure everything is working as it should. Thanks to a few answers on this forum and slow careful building, it's working on the first try. I couldn't be happier with it.

I bought the kit almost a year ago and have been slowly putting it together as parts that were backordered came in and as I got answers to make sure I was doing everything right.

I'm almost done putting my bottle together and I starting thinking about why the DB switch is ON-ON-ON and not just ON-ON. The labels are only for the two positions. What does the center position do?

I almost had a heart attack when I realized I had ON-ON-ON switches in there and had to go check all the docs and my mouser order to make sure I got the right thing.

I guess I'm just going to bite the bullet an put the big cap in where the smaller one goes. I guess if it turns out bad I can always just add the small cap where the big one goes for the mod.

Sorry about the double post. I think maybe my question got lost in the other post.

As I'm still populating the board, I thought it'd be good to ask before I solder this cap in....

Since the giant 10000 uf cap is meant to add capacitance to the smaller 680 uf.... Can I just solder the 10000 where the 680 is supposed to be and leave the 680 out? Will that be enough capacitance?

I figure that's easier to do now than putting it where it would go for the mod.

As I'm still populating the board, I thought it'd be good to ask before I solder this cap in....

Since the giant 10000 uf cap is meant to add capacitance to the smaller 680 uf.... Can I just solder the 10000 where the 680 is supposed to be and leave the 680 out? Will that be enough capacitance?

I figure that's easier to do now than putting it where it would go for the mod.

Ok! Good to know. Thanks!

Do you run at 18V?

A couple of the capacitors on the BOM link to 16V skus on mouser.

680uF C33 and the 10000 uF Cmod cap.

Is it going to be an issue that these are rated 16V if I try to run the pedal at 18V?

Just getting back to this pedal after taking a break. I've done a continuity test on the SMD IC pins. I'm getting continuity between pins 1 and 2 on them. Based on the schematic, this seems reasonable.

The pins aren't actually labeled on the schematic. But looking at the 1602 and 1604 pinouts and comparing with the direct connections on the schematic, I think I'm ok.

Does that seem right?

Sorry if this is too harsh. You'll get better with practice, I promise

Not too harsh. This is my first and hopefully only time hand soldering SMD chips.

I'll give them another pass and try to get some of the extra solder off.

Just hand soldered the chips. Can anyone take a look and tell me if they look OK?

Thanks!

http://imgur.com/gallery/VcLUqC4