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It was March 24th, 2023.  It's taken me a minute to get around to building it.  Built a couple of amps last year instead.

So here is what happened:

The pins 14 and 15 on the FV-1 did not have connection to their pads.  When Checking voltage on those pins, the lead pressed the pin down to the pad and i could read voltage.  Then when moving over to the EEPROM (removing the lead from pin 14 or 15 of the FV-1) the voltage wasn't present on pin 5 or 6 (because the connection was now broken when the pins of the FV-1 lifted ever so slightly off the pad).  Of course, then when checking continuity, i was pressing the pins of the FV-1 back to the pad and i had continuity. 

Feels stupid to have missed this but I guess some times all you need is a good nights sleep and a cup of coffee.  Anyway.  The pedal works now. 

One thing tho,  patch 7 and 8 are the same, no changes between the two.  This makes sense based on the schematic however the description shows 2 different reverb effects.  On mine both patch 7 and 8 seem to be "these ruins".  Other than that everything works great!  Cool pedal.  I've built 12 of your pedals and they are all great.  I built the protorig just before this one and it was very helpful in figuring out what was wrong.  I highly recomend it to anyone who builds more than 1 or 2.  Thanks for your help!  Now to get started on the Archibald!

It is marked.  Grey I think.  I'll double check everything again tomorrow.

completed my headtrip 2 build and it no workie.  dry pot works and can hear a pop when changing patches.  No effect tho.  Wet pot turned all the way up.  Voltage are all correct except pins 5 and 6 on the eprom read 0.  Pin 14 and 15 on the FV-1 are both 3.3vdc but 5 and 6 on the eprom are 0.  The pads for pins 5 and 6 on the eprom read 0 as well.  According to the schematic they should match pin 14 and 15 on the FV-1 and there is nothing between the FV-1 pins 14 and 15 and eprom pins 5 and 6.  Checked for continuity between 15 and 5 and between 14 and 6 and it reads good.  Where did the voltage go?

One additional note.  The volume of the popping when changing patches is controllable via the wet pot (the wet pot seems to be working but no effects.)

update:  tracing the signal and found it dropping out at R4.  R4 reads 10k.  Not sure why signal is lost there.  it's on one side but not on the other.

with the tails switch on the signal is present at pin 1 and 2 of the FV-1 but not on 28 or 27.  It's not coming out of the FV-1.

I'm considering the headtrip 2 but it isn't clear to me how the patches get loaded on to the IC?  How does that work?

As described in the build doc, the Stutr does not have a depth control. What you are calling depth is actually a duty cycle control which changes the distances between the peaks and valleys of the trem effect (IOW, it makes the rise and fall of the LED asymmetrical as you turn the Sway knob). So, the short answer is no. However, you could add a depth control with some off-board wiring. I did not include this because of the space limitation of the 1590G design.

If you want to try and wire in a Depth control this is how you would do it: remove R12 from the PCB and hook it up to a 1kB Pot and 330R resistor as shown below.

Thanks.  I may give that a try!

I built the stutr and like it with one exception.  With the depth turned all the way down (counter clockwise) it is still a bit "too deep".  In other words, the affect is quite pronounced even at the lowest depth setting.  The depth control works fine I just wish that you could have the affect turned nearly off or have a very subtle (more subtle depth) trem.  Any suggestion on what i could change to give me a bit less depth at the lowest setting?