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Pics: https://imgur.com/a/5FPYG6k

This is a special project I made for myself. Absolutely fell in love with the sound of the broadcast at lower gains for funk/RnB tones and then I needed another compressor since I sold my wampler ego mini. My idea was to approximate what Cory Wong uses to mix his guitar sounds. He did a video with Universal Audio a few years ago where he talked about his 'base tone' being an API compressor with a blend at about 50% and an SSL 4000E with some of the low end rolled off. Thought it would be fun to put the two of these in one box with individual i/o so I can swap them around if need be. The kompromat has a blend if I wanna dial it out as well. I will probably put other knobs on it at some point, these are just the best options I had on hand. Also still need to get the Kompromat LED working. There were some logistical things I had to work out, specifically that I wasn't 100% sure there was going to be room for both of these circuits in a box that's slightly smaller inside (by a few mm) than your standard 1590BBM.

I was pleasantly surprised by the kompromat. I figured it would be pretty similar to the wampelr ego which I loved and I can say it sounds pretty similar. I think the ego maybe can get a tad squishier but I never got to compare them side by side.

This was also my first time using a Gorva enclosure and I'm not sure if I'll be using them again in the future. They're Canadian which is great, they're pretty slick looking, and they've got a nice selection of colours. On the other hand they're like 2.5x the price of the ones from Tayda and the bevel was really hard to screen print on, though if I had known it was going to be so hard I would have worked around that.

Overall very happy with this build and can't wait to do some more playing with it. It also RIPS on bass.

So I got it wired up and it works and sounds great, but the LED isn't on. How would I wire it so that the LED is turned on? I was betting I'd need to connect the L pad to the ground but I thought I'd ask first.

Probably a dumb question, but I did a forum search and couldn't find an answer.

If I had a kompromat that I wanted to wire to be always on with no footswitch, is that as easy as jumpering the in and out pads at the bottom of the PCB or do I need to do anything with the J1, J2, L, and ground pads?

Hey all,

I recently found two vintage SAD1024s in an old drawer of my dad's electronics stuff. I was wondering if anyone knew of any build projects kicking around that I could use these for?

My first one was in a 125bb but the second one I built went in a 1590xx  cause I wanted the big box dmm layout.

Yeah actually when I was researching this build I saw your post where it looked like you had built it into a 1590xx.

Turned out great. I also felt that the build was not as daunting as I thought it would be. What are you thinking for graphics?

Not sure yet! I was thinking about some kind of mountain range and then the white knobs can be little clouds in the sky, but I was considering doing something kinda vapourwave-y as well.

Finished this guy up about two weeks ago and have been having an absolute blast with it.

I've previously built a pt2399 delay (Zero Point Mini) which was fine but building a real analog delay with BBDs has been a goal of mine for awhile. I decided to take the plunge a few months ago after I accidentally ordered this giant ass-blue enclosure from tayda (1590XX). I thought I was ordering the tall version of a 1590BB and didn't think to double check the measurements. After pondering if I should build two or more circuits into it or do one giant build I remembered that Madbean sold a DMM PCB and figured it would be a good challenge after building so many basic drives and fuzzes. My largest build before this was the walrus julia clone next to it in the pic but the Total Recall PCB is like twice the size of it. The most annoying thing about the build was gathering the parts. The two Xvive MN3005s and the NE570 ended up costing me almost $100 CAD, and then there's a couple very specific resistor and capacitor values that I had to dig a bit to find, but also I had to order a 24v centre positive supply for it.

It ended up being not as hard of a build as I was expecting. Like it's huge with a lot of esoteric parts but overall the build itself was pretty straightforward and also ended up being one of my cleaner builds overall. For biasing I busted out the old scope and got my dad on video chat to walk me through the steps to bias it. This was a nice full circle moment for me since my dad helped me build my first DIY pedal like 7 years ago (also a madbean build, kingslayer specifically), showing me how to solder and explaining components. At first glance the process was a little confusing but mostly because parts of the instructions were hard to decipher. In the end it was not nearly as involved as I thought it'd be since the actual range of settings on the trimpots was quite small. After I walked through the scope calibration I was messing around with it and found it's quite easy to find the least noisy settings on the bias trims for each BBD chip, and then adjusting the two gain trims so that the repeats are about the same volume as the dry signal when the level and blend knobs are at noon.

Now about the actual pedal, this thing sounds fucking amazing. It's absurdly clean sounding for an analog delay. I dunno if its the headroom from the 24v PSU or what but I'm so used to darker and grittier analog delay sounds from previously using a Rubberneck and an Ibanez ES-2. I wired it for true bypass but the preamp sounds pretty nice by itself. The two modulation options are nice, I really like how the vibrato sounds since it can get that kinda fast and deep motion on the repeats. It maxes out at 550ms though so I might want to complement this with another delay that can get a bit longer.

Overall very happy I built this thing, hoping I can get into the screen printing studio sometime in the next few months so I can get some artwork on it.

Tagboard layouts: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2012/10/analogman-king-of-tone.html

I think I figured it out though. Upon going through the board piece by piece I found I didn't put one of the 100uf caps in the right place. I fixed it and I get crunchy guitar noise through it, though the knobs are still acting weird so I've still got some work to do.

So I tried taking the charge pump out, still getting the drone sound. I tried playing around by removing some of the grounds and it did some weird stuff but didn't fix anything overall.

If anyone wants to hear what it sounds like: https://www.instagram.com/p/BZUHTPuFIsv/?taken-by=geoff_lg

This NE555 one from tagboard: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2013/02/ne555-voltage-doubler.html

Just because I happened to have a bunch of ne555s on hand. I've built a few of the same ones for a ROG Supreaux Deux build I did previously and had them work just fine. Also I checked with the multimeter and it's giving me about 18.23 volts. Both boards are tied to the one charge pump though, even though they have different ins and outs.

So for the past three months I've been meticulously building a King of Tone with an 18v charge pump inside from the tagboard layouts. I'm doing a build with separate i/o for each side, but they're tied to the same

Tonight I put the first board in and was met with a loud drone where the you can somewhat control the pitch with the drive knob. Flipping one of the clipping switches gives it a different pitch range. I figured it was something with the wiring or maybe with that specific board so I put the next one in thinking it would work but I got the exact same issue.

Anyways, I feel like I've double and triple checked everything and I have no idea what the issue could be. My charge pump is giving 18v out, the board seems fine no solder bridges, and as far as I can tell my wiring is good.

Anyone here might know what specifically might be causing this, or at least where to start looking? I'm going to check the IC with a multi-meter tomorrow, and maybe ok around with the oscilloscope as well.

Side note, it actually sounds kinda cool. I put it through my LS-2 as a mixer/sum pedal and was playing around with the individual oscillations, harmonizing them together.

I can post pics tomorrow.

Hey everyone, first post here.

I'm working on this sunn 200s layout that a client asked to be built, but I'm having a very hard time locating the 22k lin and 2.2k log pots for the treble and mid controls respectively. Is there another any other values I could use instead? I was thinking 20k or 25k for the treble and either a 1k or 5k for the mid. I literally cannot find anything close to 2.2k log taper in stock anywhere.

Additionally, does anyone know what these trimmers need to be set to? The only place on the internet that this layout shows up is in another madbean thread but there's no other info on the build.

Thanks