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Great use of space incorporating the fx loop in the same enclosure. And a 2nd for the fabbed boards. 

Category 3: Painting (with brushes)

A SHO in a PPP 1290 blem enclosure.  The lettering was done with a brush.  I taped off the pentagon and used a brush to fill it in.  I has gotten pretty beat up on my board.

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Category 7: Sticker

AMZ Mini Booster in an unfinished 1590B with a inkjet label sticker.  The design was done in photo shop with an overhead shot of the drilled enclosure as a reference.  I finished it off with a few coats of clear coat.

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Category 7: Stickers

The base coat on the trem was again spray paint.  For the labeling I used transparent laser jet sticker paper with some layers of clear coat over top.  I did the design in photoshop, with an overhead photo of the enclosure as a reference point.  

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Category 2: Paint Marker

My wife was not a huge fan of time I was spending on my new found hobby.  As a peace offering, I asked if she would like to paint one of the pedals.  I did the base coat with spray paint and gave her a couple of paint markers.  This is what she came up with.  I thought she did a good job.

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Looks great.  I too would love to hear how it sounds.  It is defiantly on my list of future builds.

All of the projects that I have posted have been in powder coated enclosures from PPP except the Quasar, which was from small bear.  I've done about a half dozen projects in enclosures that I painted myself.  I started using powder coat when I moved into an apartment.  Without a garage I can't spray the enclosures or cure them in an oven.  I have found that the power coat is much more durable.  I may get back into doing my own finishes when I get a garage again.

I built this one with spare parts I had.  I didn't have everything I needed.  So, C5 is a 1uf tantalum that I had lying around.  Therefore, my subs switch is like the previous boomstick I built, switching the input cap.   Not the prettiest this, but is sounds good and is compact.  Have I mentioned how much I like the new fabbed boards?  Brian, you are amazing.  I have thoroughly enjoyed your projects.

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So I just finished a couple of sets trying out the new Quasar.  It sounded wonderful.  I had this and an OCD v4 on my board.  The OCD seemed to get lost in the mix, but he Quasar really cut through.  I had the gain at 11:00, bass at noon, treble at 1:30, & volume at 12:30.  I am very happy with this pedal so far.  Stacked behind the OCD it sounded great too.   

 

Another board I completed this week.  I used the AC specs, but thought is sounded a bit to compressed.  I took out R8 and put in a jumper.  That seemed to open it up a bit.  I've got a TL2272 in right now.  I might try a few different IC's at some point.  I'm going to use it live tomorrow night.  I'll report on the tone through a cranked amp. 

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One a few builds I completed over that last week.  I love the fabbed boards.

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I built a Boomsick and added a switch to select the input cap value.  I used a on-off-on SPDT switch.  On the board there is a 22n cap.  The center lug is soldered to one lead of the 22n. The other lead is soldered to two other caps, one is 33n, the other is 82n.  The ends of the other two caps are soldered to the outer lugs of the SPDT switch.  Combined the input value choices are as follows: 55n, 22n, and 104n.  It works quite well and makes the pedal very versatile for different pickup and amp combinations.

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I had built a SHO a while back.  I built a Boomstick and combined the two in one box.  I added a couple of switches.  One switch is a pre/post for the boost.  The other switch is like the subs switch on the Distortron; it changes the input cap values and therefore the amount of low end.  This mod will be explained in more detail on the mods page.

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I was having trouble with the output of this guy but I think I narrowed it down to the mosfets.  It sounds pretty darn close to the stock OCD v4 i have. 

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Good News, the EgoDriver works as it should.  The IC didn't need to be changed.  I socket-ed the tranies, a few of the resistors, and the output cap.  Now the output is plenty loud.  I replace the output cap with a 1uf tantalum. 

I'm guessing the problem was with the mosfets.  After I socket-ed them it was working fine.

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