Messages

Thank you @madbean ! She's alive and well. I was connecting the input Jack of my rig tester to the 'in' of the pedal.

Excellent. Sounds great.

Btw: can't wait to try your clusterfuzz. Saving my pennies. I'm in Aus and the dollar is killing me right now.

Hi guys,

Having a bit of trouble with my Sharkfin pcb and I want to eliminate the possibility that I am simply testing it wrong using my rig.

There are a number of outputs at the bottom of the pub. Which should I be connecting to the rig to accurately see if it works?

Thanks,
Mark

Update:

So, and it always seems with building pedals, there was some ups and downs, but in the end I'm pretty happy.

I ended up having to take out all my chips a few times... I swapped them around and (at least in my mind) ended up with a better one for ic6... I'm able to bias it lower on the trimmer... Not sure if this really matters or not, but I feel it has made the whole thing better

In the end, when compared to the real dmm, you can totally tell they are the same pedal, the only issue I have with the TR is that when I turn my modulation up high, it's quite a bit noisier than the dmm. I can hear the throbbing of the modulation, whereas the dmm is quite quiet. Both have nice modulation though.

Overall, mine goes into self oscillation quicker than the real deal, but also has a longer delay time.

Thanks Lincolnic, you saved me a few headaches.

The instruction says to add one after the other. But I guess as you probe one BBD output at a time, it should work with all of them in anyways. BUT it also says that adjusting Gain1 and bias 2 is interactive, so I guess having Gain1 set to a good starting point before inserting the second BBD will be advantageous.
You can have a go at it with all of them in and if that doesn't work, pull the ICs. You won't loose more time than you already have discussing about it

It was night time (Australia) and the wife wasn't having any of me calibrating analog delays. But now, game on!

I'll let you all know how it goes.

Thank you for the reply.

I do have an audio probe, so you think I'll be alright to jus leave them in ?

Thanks again.

Hi everyone,

I built my total recall a few months ago and I had some issues following the biasing/calibration section of the build doc as others have mentioned. I ended up calibrating it by ear and have been really happy with the pedal.

I had never played a DMM before, but I knew that I was about 90% there with my build, but not 100%... So, today I rented an actual DMM for a day or so to compare as I calibrate my TR (Hence the URGENCY... I want to get it all done when I am off tomorrow!)

Anyways...

Do I NEED to take out all of the MN3008s before recalibrating, or can I just leave them in their place?

The reason I ask is that I have had chips lose their legs when I removed them in the past and this is a major pain. I would hate to ruin a MN3008 and I would much rather be able to leave them be.

BTW... After comparing the real DMM and the TR, I am convinced that I can get the TR extremely close with a bit of tweaking. They already sound extremely close, but my TR is clearly not calibrated 100% correctly.

Thanks for the help!
Mark

Just wanted to say that I truly appreciate all if your help and that I have been reading up on all of this stuff. Been a bit hard because I have been away from home, but I am definitely learning a lot.

I having a bit of a hard time with #4 ... But I will look into that more.

I am now fairly certain I am wrong about the jumper. I did not realise that a cap was in two halves, but it makes sense now when I look at schematics.

I'll get this figured out... Does my head in sometimes tho! Built a bumblebee during the week and also built the testing rig from the sticky at the top of the page but completely forgot about pnp wiring... So I am guessing that is why my bumblebee did not work on the testing rig.

Had to go away for a few days, so haven't been able to try and fix it!

Hey, I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction here--I've been using one of these basic rigs for more than a year now. However, for the first time I've tried hooking a PNP fuzz up to it, and one powered by a battery no less. Can someone tell me what would be the right way to do this? I had gone with the reversed power and ground leads method before. It worked but the circuit didn't sound its best. So now, I have only the in and out leads from the box attached and have the battery taking care of power and ground duties. Is that incorrect? I'm only getting clean signal through. As this won't be the last PNP fuzz I build, I thought it'd be good to nail down a good methodology now.

I didn't see anyone respond to this... I am in the same situation. I built the testing rig... but need to use it for a PNP effect (the Bumblebee).... problem is, I forgot about this and went ahead trying test it with the rig anyway... hope I did not mess anything up!

All I got was a somewhat dirty signal.

Wow. Thanks for all of your help. I will have a go at figuring all of this out today and get back to you.

Mark

Haha. I won't have all the parts to fully complete this build for a bit, so I can't actually test it out yet.

I'm not the greatest at looking at schematics (this is my first non-BYOC pedal build) but I did check it out... I would guess that nothing would change... But I'm probably wrong!

C4 used to be explained in the build document, but I guess it got taken out in one of the versions. It creates a low pass filter for very high frequencies. Some higher gain silicon transistors would create oscillation in the circuit, so the capacitor is there to prevent it. You can leave this off until you build the effect to see whether you need it.

Sorry for being such a noob... but would I have to run a jumper lead between the solder pads of C4 if I were to leave it out?

Thanks.

Re: the 5819 over the 5818...

The local electronics store by my house has the 5819 in stock, but not the other 2.

It's all sorted though, I ended up finding a spare 5818 at home!

Thanks for help.

On the Mangler PCB, can I use a 1N5819 in place of the 1N5817?

Thanks

Thanks for that reply... It was a lot of help!

I was wondering if anyone would be able to give me a hand. I am trying to use to the Mangler PCB to build a Mk1.5 Tone Bender. I understand they are, for the most part, the same aside from some values.

I have been using the following schematics to work through this. I have been able to identify most of the changes that need to take place, but a few things on the Mangler PCB confuse me. These are mainly:

R3 - 220R (on mangler schematic) - can't find this on the mk1.5 schematic and I am wondering its purpose/effect on tone

C4 - 10pf (also on mangler schematic) - also not on the mk1.5 schematic...

I think I have sorted the rest out, and obviously there is more going on with the built in road rage power system as well.

I have included the images. Thanks for any help.

Mk1.5
<a href="http://s17.photobucket.com/user/morkmango/media/TonebenderMk15FinalLayout.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b66/morkmango/TonebenderMk15FinalLayout.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo TonebenderMk15FinalLayout.jpg"/></a>

Mangler:
<a href="http://s17.photobucket.com/user/morkmango/media/manglerschem.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b66/morkmango/manglerschem.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo manglerschem.jpg"/></a>