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Great work! That's amazing you crammed all of the BBD stuff and relay switching into a 1590A!

I like that Loadstone Delay. PT2399 delays can sound really. I like them better than my BBD delays (sacrillege I know). I have an Aquapus, and an Aqua Boy, but the Rebote 2.5 I built way back when sounds better to my ear. It has a little more noise but the longer delay time and the filtering makes me like it more than the others. 

Awesome! Great idea!

I designed this PCB in Eagle for John Hollis' Flatline. This is a great project. Worked super good the first time.

Here is a link to a blog post with more info and pictures of the build: http://www.super-freq.com/flat-line-by-john-hollis/

I used a VTL5C3 and some silicon workalike "1n34a" type diodes. People report varying success with some parts. These worked for me.

I designed this PCB with Eagle and had boards manufactured at PCBWay.com.

I milled the enclosure on my desktop mill.

Thanks!

Making boards makes for better builds but the process is different. There's more time spent up front prepping and planning in software. It's a different game.

This mill job had a few problems. It's hard to see in this image but there's a couple deeper gouges where I had trouble getting the depth right. In the end it's good enough rock and roll. Figure you're just stepping on it with your foot.

I made some PCBs at PCBWay.com. Their service is $5 for 10 boards under 100mm. It's so cheap to make boards these I have been doing this before prototyping on perf board or strip board. 

This board had an error. One leg of one cap was connected to the wrong location. I could fix this by mounting the cap on the bottom and running one leg to the correct location.

I milled this box on my desktop mill. I tried a flat end mill instead of the engraving bit. The results were a little ragged.

Here's some more pictures and info: http://www.super-freq.com/univox-super-fuzz/

I building the Pastyface 2020. I have bag of ge transistors what gains would be recommended for Q1-3?

Never mind, I'm blind, I figured it out. Sometimes if state at something Ling enough you can't see anything.

I have an Othermill. I do pretty good if I use the 1/32" bit. The engraving bit is also great these are really hard to break. I don't, go anywhere near the 1/64" bits these seem to break pretty easily.

I'm building a few Softie 2021 version. The board has a C1 but I don't see it on the schematic and the parts list does show the part number only the values.

This looks interesting. Where did you get the board for this?

I was thinking about rehousing something into a Boss enclosure. Anyone here done this?

I've seen a couple of these. Switching could either be a relay bypass or a 3PDT switch. I've seen some pictures where a 3PDT switch was fit under the Boss foot pedal/battery door. I'd like to hear how this worked out from anyone who has tried it.

Actually after a second pass the jumper from pin 1 to pin 8 does work! I swear put the jumper in then checked continuity across pins 1 and 8, but later when took a second look the jumper wire was loose. I fixed the solder joint and everything was good! Thanks again.

Thanks for the replies. Looks like:

TC1044S
CPA

On the chip. I can't remember where I got these, maybe Tayda. Which makes me suspect. I bought some PT2399's from  were bad. I might have a couple spares, let me look.

I just built Fat Pants Jr in a 1590a box. Everything works but I can hear high pitched whine, even when the effect is bypassed.

I'm using a TC1044. I bridged pins 1 and 8. Which helped but the sound is still noticeable. Anyone who built this have any suggestions?

I'm trying to find some Subminiature PCB mount toggle switches. These need to be smaller than the typical mini toggle switches that are available.