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Cool! Found it... Thank you guys!

I've been looking for the library for the fairchild H11F1.  Does anyone know where I can find it?

Cool. I'll look him up. Thanx!

Not sure if this is the right place for this post, but here goes...

I keep seeing these cool enclosures using black copper clad fr4. Where do you get this stuff? Can you get other colors?

Perfect... Thanx!

So I'm trying some new options for enclosure finishing, specially etching. There are a lot of walk throughs and info about etching, but nothing on "reverse" etching. What I'm trying to do is etch the surface so that the image is raised, paint the surface, and then sand it down until the image is visible again. Does anyone know of a tutorial on this or any tips?

So I'm building a Lowrider and it calls for a 1n34a diode.  I ran out and I'm having trouble getting this part.  I was thinking about subbing the 1n270, but I don't know if it will work.  This is a complicated circuit that's really over my head so I'm not sure what that diode does or what I could use as a substitute for it.  Any suggestions?

It seems like there would be less or no voltage between vcc+ and ground if that were the case. But just to make sure, I looked at the board and I see no solder bridges and DMMed all the components up to that point and they all give back the right readings.

OK... I'm stumped.  I just finished a deadringer II build and I'm debugging it.  I've traced the signal to the input of the first stage of the opamp (pin 3).  Now all of my signal tracing/voltage readings are from legs of the IC, not through the socket or the solder on the bottom of the board.  I get signal on the input (pin 3) but not the output (pin 1) nor the inverted input (pin 2).  The other opamp (pins 5,6,and 7) have nothing either.  If I measure the voltage between pin 8 (Vcc+) and ground, I get 9v.  If I measure the voltage between pin 8 (Vcc+) and pin 4 (Vcc) I get 8.5-9v.  So, I traded out the JRC4558 IC with another from the same batch.  Same readings.  I traded the IC out with a TL072, same readings.  I even tried a 1458, with the same readings.  What am I missing here?

Love the etch...  Great build!

So this is one of the first builds I actually finished.  I have a few on the scrap pile, unfortunately...  I built this pretty much stock including the diodes.  I used the suggested red LEDs and the 1N914's.  I really enjoyed building this, and I'm sure I'll be building more...

I see.... I didn't realize that the switch soldered directly to the board. I thought you wired it. That alone makes it worth the 5 bucks! Thanks for the info. I better take a second look at the documentation!

I'm about to start this build, and it looks like it's gonna be a tight fit. On tayda they now have a 2t4p rotary switch, but it looks huge. Has anybody tried this switch? Does it fit?

K. Thanks for the info... I'll keep trying!

So my soldering pretty much sucks. After watching some YouTube videos, I'm wondering if part of the problem is my equipment. I'm using a walmart $10 soldering iron, and 60/40 solder from Walmart. My question is, what kind of solder (brand, size, makeup, ect) are some of you veterans using and what kind of soldering iron/station? Should I invest in a variable voltage or variable temperature soldering station? Which one?