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If the circles really are paths, then you can just select them and then pick a "fill" color.  Use the palette at the bottom of the window or the fill/stroke controls (ctrl-shift-F).

edit oh wait - if they're "holes" in a bigger path, then you can try this.  First, make a copy of the outer shape (the thing with holes).  Make a random shape (rectangle or whatever) that's a little bigger than the hole, and make it a path (object to path).  Drop the copy of the original shape over your rectangle, make sure both the shape and the rectangle are selected, and then do a "Difference".  That should leave you with a complete path that's just the "hole".

OK cool, that's what I thought.  I also found some 1N4001 parts hidden in a bag labelled, "1N4001".

I'm going to be populating a Nautilus board, so I've been going through a diode grab bag to see if I've got the parts. I found a couple of 1N914 diodes, but no 1N4001 parts. I do however have several 1N4002, 1N4004, and 1N4006 parts. How different are they? They seem similar from the data sheet, but I'm deeply ignorant so I'm not sure that I'm reading it correctly.

Obviously I could just order some.

Well it definitely works on pedals, though it's probably prudent to bake the bottom lid of the pedal first if it's a painted surface, just to see if the paint will melt or ignite

[bake-on]

You can safely buy from this link : ...

I don't want to discourage ordering from that ebay seller, but I do want to make it clear that there's a difference between the plain water-slide laser decal paper, and the bake-on water-slide laser decal paper. I don't know what happens if you try to bake the ordinary stuff, but I bet it wouldn't be a pretty sight.

The bake-on paper from Papilio explicitly says that on the packaging.

I have some laser decal paper from decalpaper.com, and I'm not very happy with it. The decals are extremely fragile.

However, I recently picked up a 10-sheet pack of bake-on laser decal paper from papilio.com, and I'm very impressed. The decal plastic seems *much* sturdier.  I also bought a little squirt bottle of "decal mounting fluid", which is a somewhat goopy substance that makes it way easy to arrange the decal after placement. Even after most of the decal mounting goop dries, it's still possible to work bubbles out from under the decal. Baking the decal on seems to seal it very securely; even a test decal on which I did an absolutely terrible job baked on quite firmly even though it has huge bubbles in it.

I also ordered a cheap printmaking roller ("brayer") for bubble removal, as that's a pain in the neck.

I saw the idea for a 3-color LED. That might be kind-of neat, though (I'm a web designer & user experience person by trade) I'm not sure how that would be anything but a cool-looking decoration. (I guess there's something to be said for that.)

Nope, you only need a 3 pole

Ah, OK, awesome. I mean, I don't mind buying a 4-pole; I just wanted to "get it".

I've been confused about the rotary switch since I first started reading the Nautilus build PDF (which is otherwise very helpful and informative).  I have precious little powers of intuition on hardware topics. I'm guessing that the choice of switch has something to do with availability; rotary one-pole switches don't seem to exist. Three-pole switches do, however; is it really important that it be a 4-pole switch?

For the 4-position switch, one position isn't used in the Nautilus. Is it intended that the switch be one of those with the "magic washer" to limit the number of positions allowed to 3?

I'm pretty dumb so these questions may be ridiculous. I've ordered the board anyway