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Here's the entire re-stock timeline:

~July 17th
BurlyBear
Charlatan
Collosalus
Current Lover
Fraudhacker
HoneyDripper
Kezurokai
Kingmaker
NomNom
StageFright
Tone Virus
Trash Compactor
Wavelord

2nd week of August:
Blue Steel
Cliffhager
Florist
Glasshole
Kompromat
Mysterioso
Oracle
Polytrog
RoughCut
Touchstone
Prognosticator
All VFE projects

1st week of Sept:
Aquababy
Batwing
BoomBoom
Edgelord
GasTank
Headtrip
JunkTrunk
PorkBarrel
Promenade
Retrograde
SludgeHammer
Skoolie
Tourbus

There's probably a few missing from the list so they'll be added to Aug. or Sept or I'll do another round late Sept (which is probably when the new store will be done and more new projects will start coming out). Once everything is back in stock they will stay that way.

I mean, you could always just put "Build documentation coming soon..." 😂

Lol. I will say I think between the two of us Kevin and I have set a pretty decent standard over the years. With a lot of help and feedback from builders. Always room to do better.

New update: it's going to be several more days before this restock batch comes out. I'm currently updating the project docs but it's like 15 of them so it's taking a long time. I must be insane to think I am going to update every single project this year. But, I'm going to do it somehow.

I had a similar issue with a roll of Kester. A day or two after the joints became cloudy and dirty. Looked terrible. Switched to a different type of solder and no more problems.

Sorry, a little sick today. I'll take a close look at your posts tomorrow and respond.

Those trace widths look quite thin. Are they 5 or 6 mil? My personal preference is 10mil for audio and 24mil for DC.

Hi All-

Just bult a VFE Mini Mu with the included Tru Soft switching board.  I used the latching relay and I jumpered the board approprioately per instruction sheet.

The effect turns on and sounds fine ... everything works in effect mode ... LED lights up.  When I click to bypass LED goes out but I get no sound coming thru at all.  Assume the issue is somewhere on the True Soft Board.

Any ideas on where to start ?  I can post pictures but it is boxed and the True Soft Board is "upside down" (solder side showing).   

Just a bit of gentle love here, but this is why I emphasize the goofy "rock it before you box it" mantra. Unfortunately at this point you may be looking at some disassembly and pics before anyone can give meaningful advice. The problem description alone isn't enough to give meaningful feedback. There are just too many factors that could be at work.

Brian, I know you plate is extremely full. But if there were to be a stripped down micro synth that was just the square wave and resonance, I think it would be kind of a big deal. I won't pretend to know the architecture of the circuit or if it's even possible but yeah. That would be awesome. Just saying.

That's actually a lot of the circuit, so I don't think it would be practical. I have prototyped a 1590B version of just the sub-otave portion of the Microsynth b/c I thought it would be an awesome project. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to figure out why it is not working. I did convert it from +/- power to single ended, so that might have something to do with it.

I'm looking more at your resistor values and I'm seeing what could be a number of incorrect values. However, sometimes image compression plays tricks with the light.

Here's what I'm seeing:

Around IC1, there are several 100ks that appear to be 1M on your build (yellow stripe instead of orange stripe). R7 and R8 seems like they are 1M or 2M, not 200k. R5 appears to be 1k5, not 150R. R57/58 again appear to be 1M not 100k. There may be others. Can you please take another look and see if I'm wrong? Did you pull the resistors out of a pre-labeled bag. Could they be labeled incorrectly?

It is incredibly frustrating on all sides. My European orders have dropped significantly over the last 2-3 years, as well.

Hi,

Readings are

Pin 2
CCW - 49hz
CW - oscillates between 586-637hz

Pin 8
CCW - 49hz
CW - 57hz

Did you mean pin6, not 8?

You do appear to have something wonky with the clock. It looks like all your resistor values around the clock are correct. What value is printed on your MICA cap (C40)?

Also, I just noticed a lot of wrong voltages on you NE570. It's getting power and ground fine but something else is wrong there.

That actually sounds like a clock problem. If you are getting some signal at TP2 then something is working, but not correctly.

Do you have a frequency measurement setting on your multimeter? I'd use it to check both pin2 and pin6 of IC8. First with the delay pot CCW, then CW. Write those down and post them here.

How's that microsynth looking?

I've taken a long time with it. Actually, just a week ago I found two mistakes (one critical) in my schematic. I will get the next prototype ordered and built in August. So, maybe September?

I might have shown this already but this is what we're looking at (for the 1790 enclosure). I have to change the bypass I/O to work with the new bypass boards but I think it is otherwise ready now.

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Hi Brian,

Any chance you'll be offering the VFE switch PIC some time soon?

Yes, once I get this batch released (probably Monday) I will get my next batch orders placed. That includes restocking the VFE PIC for individual purchase (and all the VFE projects as well). I worked it out with Peter so I don't have to get them from him anymore. I can go direct to Microchip.

IOW, it's taken a while but I have a solid plan to have the store fully re-stocked by the end of August and all the mbp projects updated to their 2024 versions. PLus more new projects.

Cool. Assuming most of the values are carrying over from the earlier Harbinger (are they?), what are the values of the two new trimmers (DTIME and BRITE)? Probably placing a Tayda order this week and and want to have them in stock when the board gets released.

It's a bit too soon to give you the BOM. I'm still prototyping. The first version was built a few months ago and I've got what I believe are the needed changes but I need to be sure first. For sure of one thing - all the 1uF film coupling caps are now electrolytic like the original Univibe. This was necessary to get it all to fit in the layout. Hendrix didn't mind, so I guess I don't either.