#1
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#2
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These are great! Any chance they can be updated to include LED wiring, for those pedals that don't have them on the PCB?
#3 with off-board LED wiring
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Rad.
I wonder Brian if it would be worth doing a redrawing of the Gaussmarkov style of truebypass in the Madbean style...
Jacob
These are very nice, Brian.
I wonder if I could request a wiring diagram to switch the order of 2 fx inside one box, sort of like the bb preamp plus. I asked about this a while back and I think you said this would use a 4pdt switch?
No hurry, I just wanted to throw the idea out there.
Habby: do you mean a switch to make it go from 'effect A then B' to 'effect B into A?'
If so, check out posts 3 & 5 of this (http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19570&p=147314) thread over at BYOC. It's just a 3PDT toggle or stomp; 4PDT if you want LED indicators.
Yes, that is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks bro.
Brian,
Have you got a diagram for chaining multiple effects into one enclosure? What is your opinion on doing this, shielding and decoupling?
Thanks a bunch!
Quote from: madbean on December 01, 2010, 04:27:21 PM
#1
Stupid question, but what do I change if I don't want to attach the power supply connection and only use a battery?
Black lead goes to input jack ring. Red lead goes to 9v in on board. Flip that if it's a rangemastr or other "positive ground" effect.
Jacob
Quote from: jkokura on January 05, 2011, 06:07:32 AM
Black lead goes to input jack ring. Red lead goes to 9v in on board. Flip that if it's a rangemastr or other "positive ground" effect.
Jacob
Thanks!
Quote from: madbean on December 03, 2010, 05:03:55 PM
#3 with off-board LED wiring
to clarify when using diagram #3, the LED and SW on the board will be empty?
Yes, led and led resistor can be left iff the board with #3. There are some boards that don't have either and LED or the accompanying resistor in the board, use #3 if this I the case and you want an LED indicator.
Jacob
Just to confirm, is the stereo jack the input?
Also, if I were to leave out the 9v battery harness, how would I go about doing that?
Thanks!
If you don't plan on using a battery, than you can use a mono jack at the input. If you already have the stereo jack, just leave the ring disconnected and wire it up like normal.
What is the purpose of grounding the input when bypassed? I've noticed other 3PDT wiring diagrams that don't do this so I was wondering the difference?
Thanks,
Doug
Hate to be dense, but what is done with the sleeve connection on J1 which is output, correct?
Is it left open?
Quote from: igore42 on March 03, 2011, 07:47:15 PM
What is the purpose of grounding the input when bypassed? I've noticed other 3PDT wiring diagrams that don't do this so I was wondering the difference?
Thanks,
Doug
Missed this one, sorry. Here's the late info.
Grounding the PCB's input while in bypass is helpful for draining current from some of the electrolytic capacitors which store electricity. This leads to two things (as far as I know) - prolonged life for the caps, and less or no popping when turning the circuit back on.
Quote from: Background Noise on March 21, 2011, 04:30:06 PM
Hate to be dense, but what is done with the sleeve connection on J1 which is output, correct?
Is it left open?
You're not dense, you just haven't learned yet! No worries!
Often we all use the open switchcraft jacks. Many jacks actually connect to ground through the enclosure because it's metal. That means that technically you only have to connect one of the jack's ground lugs (sleeve) to the PCB ground. I do this all the time. However, remember that if you remove the circuit from the enclosure, you now need to find a way to ground that jack.
I try hard to connect all ground to the PCB. For example, if there are extra 'holes' for the ground, I will use one for the switch, one for the power jack, and then one for either jack. That way, I only need to run one wire to each lug. Many problems while wiring occur because you're trying to fit too many wires onto a single lug which isn't meant to handle more than one wire, like Power jacks. That's also why i like having the CLR and a hole for the LED on my board, that way I don't have to solder two wires to the power jack.
Jacob
Quote from: jkokura on March 21, 2011, 04:54:58 PM
Grounding the PCB's input while in bypass is helpful for draining current from some of the electrolytic capacitors which store electricity. This leads to two things (as far as I know) - prolonged life for the caps, and less or no popping when turning the circuit back on.
That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the knowledge. :)
Hey there, I'm working on my first project and got to the 3pdt switch. I think I understand the wiring alright but I'm just not sure which way is up on this switch according to the way the diagram. Is it basically reversable?
sorry for the noom question.
Switches can be reversable, but only up and down. You can turn a switch 180 degrees, but not 90 degrees.
The holes in the lugs need to be seen through top to bottom. That means that all the holes go up and down. Does that help?
Jacob
Quote from: jkokura on March 28, 2011, 12:12:48 AM
Switches can be reversable, but only up and down. You can turn a switch 180 degrees, but not 90 degrees.
The holes in the lugs need to be seen through top to bottom. That means that all the holes go up and down. Does that help?
Jacob
I "think" I get what you mean but not sure. I understand the "You can turn a switch 180 degrees, but not 90 degrees."
But the holes need to be seen through top to bottom? Are you saying that the holes in the switch need to face the top/bottom of box? Thus the holes do NOT face towards the input/output jacks?
Yes.
Jacob
Thanks.
Is there a smiley with a light bulb going off over a head?
Here is a new wiring diagram I put together. I will be referring to this one in future documentation in the hopes of eliminating the redundant diagrams in each project.
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Quote from: madbean on April 04, 2011, 12:28:20 AM
Here is a new wiring diagram I put together. I will be referring to this one in future documentation in the hopes of eliminating the redundant diagrams in each project.
looks awesome!
That looks fantastic, will make it heaps easier for anyone starting out for sure (and ofcourse ill be printing it and sticking it on my bench ;)).
That's brilliant! Thanks, Brian!
Hi,
Hello everybody (it's my first post). I've got a little question about the jack's sleeve connections. I've seen in the simple diagram (the one with only a 3PDT for a simple effects) the output jack sleeve isn't connected anywhere and in the one with two 3PDT (like the aristocrat) is the input jack sleeve the one not connected. Is there any problem if I connect them to ground in the 3PDT for painted enclosures?
Thanks!
It is perfectly fine to connect both the input and output jacks to ground. Usually this is done through the enclosure if you are using a metal enclosure. If your enclosure is painted on the outside, but the inside is unpainted, it will likely still make a ground connection, especially if you drill after painting. The act of drilling often makes for a good connection between the jack and ground.
Jacob
The new wiring diagram is great!
Have you ever considered building a little PCB that we could mount footswitchs on? I received one with a Mammoth order I made. I didn't use it (because it wasn't the same layout as what we have here) but I see where it could make things a LOT easier. The holes in the PCB were big enough that you could insert a NON-PCB mounted switch into the PCB. Pretty cool. If you made them I'd buy one for every build.
Quote from: tenwatt on April 05, 2011, 12:54:23 PM
Have you ever considered building a little PCB that we could mount footswitchs on? I received one with a Mammoth order I made. I didn't use it (because it wasn't the same layout as what we have here) but I see where it could make things a LOT easier. The holes in the PCB were big enough that you could insert a NON-PCB mounted switch into the PCB. Pretty cool. If you made them I'd buy one for every build.
In fact I do have one that's being worked on. I had a couple prototypes made but I had messed up the pins for the DC jack (the DC and IN/OUT jacks mount to the board). I revised it and I have some new prototypes on the way. If it works out and I can make an accurate drilling template for the jacks I will be offering it.
Quote from: madbean on April 05, 2011, 02:58:08 PM
Quote from: tenwatt on April 05, 2011, 12:54:23 PM
Have you ever considered building a little PCB that we could mount footswitchs on? I received one with a Mammoth order I made. I didn't use it (because it wasn't the same layout as what we have here) but I see where it could make things a LOT easier. The holes in the PCB were big enough that you could insert a NON-PCB mounted switch into the PCB. Pretty cool. If you made them I'd buy one for every build.
In fact I do have one that's being worked on. I had a couple prototypes made but I had messed up the pins for the DC jack (the DC and IN/OUT jacks mount to the board). I revised it and I have some new prototypes on the way. If it works out and I can make an accurate drilling template for the jacks I will be offering it.
Nice. Let us know when it's avalible.
Hey, Brian. The new wiring diagram is great. Maybe link to it from the projects page? Or link to this forum post. Just a thought!
There's actually a link on the Projects page. It's in the upper right hand margin of the page.
I'm still eager for the learn section. How close it that coming to being done or at least viewable?
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on April 07, 2011, 02:18:11 PM
I'm still eager for the learn section. How close it that coming to being done or at least viewable?
ditto
Noob question here, what would the orientation of the switch be for the madbean wiring of the 3pdt? Are the poles aligned with the sides with the holes facing vertically or horizontally? i.e.
ABC
1 l l l
2 l l l
3 l l l
vs
A B C
1- - -
2- - -
3- - -
?
thanks in advance.
Quote from: Gyrofist on April 23, 2011, 06:52:09 PM
Noob question here, what would the orientation of the switch be for the madbean wiring of the 3pdt? Are the poles aligned with the sides with the holes facing vertically or horizontally? i.e.
ABC
1 l l l
2 l l l
3 l l l
vs
A B C
1- - -
2- - -
3- - -
?
thanks in advance.
Sorry about that, just found the answer to that question...for some reason my computer was having a hard time with page 2 of this thread. Thanks for the help (almost done my first build! Hopefully it works!)
Hi Brian,
Do you have a wiring diagram for two stuffing two effects in one enclosure using the same 9V source?
How is the output of effect #1 connected to input of effect #2?
Thanks
Quote from: knd on July 18, 2011, 03:33:08 PM
Hi Brian,
Do you have a wiring diagram for two stuffing two effects in one enclosure using the same 9V source?
How is the output of effect #1 connected to input of effect #2?
Instead of output of effect 1 going to the tip of the out jack it goes right into effect 2 in.
http://www.google.com/search?q=PUT+2+FX+IN+ONE+BOX+
Thank you mister! What I was fuzzy about was the stomp switch wiring!
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on July 18, 2011, 04:03:47 PM
Quote from: knd on July 18, 2011, 03:33:08 PM
Hi Brian,
Do you have a wiring diagram for two stuffing two effects in one enclosure using the same 9V source?
How is the output of effect #1 connected to input of effect #2?
Instead of output of effect 1 going to the tip of the out jack it goes right into effect 2 in.
http://www.google.com/search?q=PUT+2+FX+IN+ONE+BOX+
Is there any chance of these diagrams getting re-uploaded? I'm trying to figure out how to wire up a project without a battery snap (do I just omit the third terminal?) and if I can use mono jacks for both input and output (as the lack of snap would negate the need to ground it to the tip terminal). Any help would be greatly appreciated!
second for getting the wiring diagrams reupped.
Quote from: Boxcar on February 09, 2012, 09:11:58 AM
Is there any chance of these diagrams getting re-uploaded? I'm trying to figure out how to wire up a project without a battery snap (do I just omit the third terminal?) and if I can use mono jacks for both input and output (as the lack of snap would negate the need to ground it to the tip terminal). Any help would be greatly appreciated!
The main wiring diagram is still up, its in the top right corner of the projects page. If you wish to build without a battery you CAN use 2 mono jacks since you don't need the ring lug anymore.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf
Love the new wiring diagram! good job!