Hey guys I'm still a total noob at this, I'm trying to gather the parts to build a slambox. I'm having difficulty with finding the capacitors and the pot-what am I looking for? Small bear list his parts differently.
Here's the pot, just choose the 5K. C means reverse taper.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=116
This one will do for C1, but you could use a different type of film cap if you want. Just drop down the menu and choose the .1
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=892
C2 and C3 are eclectrolytic caps. Get radials, not axials. mF is the same thing as uF.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=Capacitors%2C+Electrolytic
Here's the zener diode
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=330
Here's your transistor
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok
If anyone wants to double check me, I appreciate it.
I used this pot for mine. a 5kC, but one you can mount the board right to.
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=692 (http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=692)
WOW guys! Thanks so much for the help, this forum is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Guys does this look right!?! Also what kind of jacks should I get and wire?
240K to 1 Meg - Individual (1Meg)
0906 1.1 Meg to 22 Meg - Individual (10Meg)
0902 1.1K to 6.2K - Individual (5.1K)
0904 43K to 220K - Individual (47K)
0902 1.1K to 6.2K - Individual (2.2K)
1101B Capacitor, Panasonic ECQ-V .01 mf. - .1 mf. (.1 mf.)
2202 Diode 1N4001
2214 Diode Zener 1N4739A (Diode Zener 1N4739A)
2109 Transistor FET BS170
1007 Alpha 16mm Single-Gang, Reverse Audio & "W", Solder Terms (5K)
1155 Capacitor, Topmay TCM07 5mm Box, .001 mf to .1 mf. (.1 mf.)
I don't see your electrolytics. and it looks like you have two .1mF film caps on there (the Panasonic and Topmay).
for jacks, if you want to have a battery and a DC jack, get a stereo jack for your input and a mono for your output. if you are only going to use a battery, or just a DC jack, then you can use a mono for both.
if you are getting everything from small bear you can get the 22AWG or 24AWG will do you just fine. just decide whether you want stranded or solid core. i think its all preference, i know some people prefer solid core because it's easy to run wire and have it stay where you put it, I personally use stranded because it's more flexible.
ya, you still need your electro's.
Things not on the parts list that you will need are
a dc jack (2.1mm)
a battery snap if you are using one
an LED
LED holder of some sort?
an enclosure
knobs for your pots (1/4" shaft)
3dpt footswitch
mono jack
stereo jack
I usually order 1 or 2 extra of resistors, caps and LEDs in case one is bad.
like irmcdermott said, this particular board can use the pc mounted pot if you want...
also, i don't know how much you have to spend, but here is a little trick that I have learned on buying resistors...
- Go to Mouser and search for 291-Value-RC, but instead of the word "Value" put in the actually number value. Examples: 470R (ohms) = 291-470-RC, 4.7k = 291-4.7k-RC, 1M = 291-1M-RC
- Look at the price, if you buy 10 or more it's $0.04/resistor. So buy 100 and its $4, that doesn't seem like a deal at all, and it's not.
- Look again, if you buy 200, the price is $0.014/resistor. So, do the math and you see that you get double the resistors for 1/2 the price. You get 200 for $2.10, which is also $0.85 cheaper than SmallBears 200 packs.
So, if you are just starting out, I recommend buying more than just 1 of each component like Haberdasher said. Not only do you save yourself from a bad part (it does happen every now and then), but you start building up a library of parts. But I also know what it's like to only be able to buy what you need.
no, don't get axial- those lay down on the board which you are not going to have room for.
you want radial caps of the same values.
Ok so here's what I've tried to correct, sorry I did'nt get the caps right the first time. I'm trying to multi task rigth now. Am I missing anything!?!
Qty SKU Description Price Total
0905 240K to 1 Meg - Individual (1Meg)
0906 1.1 Meg to 22 Meg - Individual (10Meg)
0902 1.1K to 6.2K - Individual (5.1K)
0904 43K to 220K - Individual (47K)
0902 1.1K to 6.2K - Individual (2.2K)
2202 Diode 1N4001
2214 Diode Zener 1N4739A (Diode Zener 1N4739A)
2109 Transistor FET BS170
1007 Alpha 16mm Single-Gang, Reverse Audio & "W", Solder Terms (5K)
1155 Capacitor, Topmay TCM07 5mm Box, .001 mf to .1 mf. (.1 mf.)
0611 Jack, DC Power, 2.1 mm All-Plastic, Round (All-plastic Round)
2300 LED T-1 3/4 5mm Diffused (Green)
0615 Bezel, LED 5mm, Chrome (Chrome)
1404 Capacitor, Electrolytic, Radial 16 V 1 mf. - 100 mf. (10 mf.)
1404 Capacitor, Electrolytic, Radial 16 V 1 mf. - 100 mf. (47 mf.)
0200 Switch - Taiwan Blue 3PDT (Blue 3PDT)
0600 Jack, 1/4 in. Mono Switchcraft #11 (Switchcraft #11)
0508B Wire, #24 Pre-Bond, 50 Ft. Sampler
looks good to me.
smallbear is great, Steve has some things that can be hard to come by, but also look around because you can find some things cheaper at other places. my first couple of build i bought straight from him, but then started to shop around.
I buy my 3PDT switches and enclosures (i usually use 1290's or 125's) from www.pedalpartsplus.com. their switches are $5 cheaper than smallbear.
Everything else I usually go to smallbear, mouser, jameco, and if I don't mind waiting 3-4 weeks, futurlec to find the best deals on stuff.
Again, I love smallbear and use them a lot, I'm not trying to talk them down, but I know money is tight for me, so I'm always shopping around for the best deal.
But, your list looks right to me.
Don't forget an enclosure and maybe a battery snap.
Also, you'll need a stereo jack *if* you want to do input jack power-switching/battery saving thing (there's probably a technical name for that). Basically, the second audio connection of the stereo jack completes the power's circuit so when nothing is plugged into the input jack the pedal gets no power thereby extending battery life.
Also also, another parts option is Caps n' Such (http://www.forrestwhitesides.com/shop/ (http://www.forrestwhitesides.com/shop/)). They even have a 'Crackle Boost' parts kit (http://www.forrestwhitesides.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=105 (http://www.forrestwhitesides.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=39&products_id=105)) which has nearly all the components for a Slambox. But Sm. Bear is perhaps the only place to get everything from one vendor.
I ordered a 1590a enclosure from pedal parts plus last night, and I am trying not use batteries, so I am going to build without a battery snap.
Quote from: PaxWorks on June 26, 2010, 04:28:48 PM
I ordered a 1590a enclosure from pedal parts plus last night, and I am trying not use batteries, so I am going to build without a battery snap.
+1. Batteries are wasteful, IMO.
Basically, one stop shopping costs more, but buying from 3 different vendors = more shipping.
The first year is expensive, period.
But if you always buy more than you need, and look for the good deals, the reward will be that awesome feeling you get at the end of that year when you actually build a pedal from stock you already own! :o
And a BIG + for Caps and Such. Forrest (CultureJam on most boards) is a great guy to deal with. And you won't accidentally buy a hot dog sized capacitor in his store. Everything is pedal specific and cheap.