Just wondering if anyone has any good mods for the pedal. Also, has anyone tried different clipping diodes? Would it be safe to use a MOSFET or silicon?
Oh yes, using any type of diode for clipping is safe. Is it a good idea? Sometimes. You could try socketing those parts and trying a variety of diodes for clipping just to see what works well for you.
Jacob
The only thing I've done with mine so far is changing R5 to 47ohm down from 470. Don't know if this is a mod so much as a fix though. Sounds a million times better now.
The clipping diodes should change how it sounds very noticeably. Yes try mosfets, silicon, other germaniums (bat41, 1n270) or even LED's! I've come to like LED's as clippers, they offer a big open crunchy sound. Less gain so its more clear. I've been using the little 3mm blue super brights recently and I'm lovin it!
I just built this the other day and so far I'm loving it. Has anyone tried using mosfets for clipping yet? I think I have some around that I may have to try since I really like them in other pedals. I'm guessing it'd also be possible to use jumpers (I used sockets) and have no clipping diodes.
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on July 03, 2011, 04:35:05 PM
The clipping diodes should change how it sounds very noticeably. Yes try mosfets, silicon, other germaniums (bat41, 1n270) or even LED's! I've come to like LED's as clippers, they offer a big open crunchy sound. Less gain so its more clear. I've been using the little 3mm blue super brights recently and I'm lovin it!
Are they Kingbright Waterclears?
Quote from: redbean on July 22, 2011, 06:38:50 AM
Are they Kingbright Waterclears?
I really don't know about LED brands. I believe I got them from Tayda though. Why do you ask? How can I identify LED brands?
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on July 22, 2011, 05:55:28 PM
I really don't know about LED brands. I believe I got them from Tayda though. Why do you ask? How can I identify LED brands?
Because I have some Kingbright Waterclear blues I bought from Mouser ($0.20 apiece) and Mammoth ($0.16 apiece), both of which are the same model, and some LITE-ON blues from Tayda. The Tayda were a LOT cheaper ($0.04 apiece), and had a different brightness/voltage rating. So, I wanted to know how they performed (apparently well). Thanks.
The brands were identified in the descriptions of the products. For example, the Tayda blue LEDs are called "LED 3mm Blue Water Clear Ultra Bright," and if you click on the 'specifications' tab you will see "Manufacturer: LITE-ON" at the top of the text box. Link: http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-1888/LED-Blue-Ultra-Bright/Detail (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/servlet/the-1888/LED-Blue-Ultra-Bright/Detail)
Hi all,
I just wanted to share the mods I performed on my Boneyard build:
First of all if you change R5 to reduce gain you have to reduce C5 as well to maintain the frequency response. I use 100R and 1µF here.
For clipping I like a 2N7000 and a BAT41 on one side and a 2N7000 and a red LED on the other. This makes for a bit smoother clipping, less raw. I have stock and modded clipping on a switch.
I also soldered a cap across the lugs 1 and 2 of the Tone control to smooth out the highs a bit on higher settings of the tone control. Values from 10nF to 22nF gave good results.
C7 is a good place to shape the response of the bass and lower mids. Try values of 68nF to 100nF. I found the stock 68nF a bit woofy with my setup, so I changed to 82nF and am happy now.
A little goes a long way and can make this circuit sound REALLY good!
Happy modding,
Timo
ODwan is right. If you change R5, you need to change C5 to keep the same frequencies. I tried a lot of resistor/cap pairs today (if you double the resistance, you need to half the capictance):
47 ohms + 2.2uF
68 ohms + 1.5uF
100 ohms + 1uF
130 ohms + .8uF (.47uF+.33uF)
150 ohms + .69uF (.47uF+.22uF)
220 ohms + .47uF
370 ohms + .28uF (.22uF+.056uF)
470 ohms + .22uF
By the time I got to 470 ohms with a .22uF cap, I could turn the volume, gain, and boost wide open and not get squeal (although there was still quite a bit of hum). If you are looking to tame this beast a bit I would try the ranges between 100-220 ohms with the correct cap.
Man I spent all day trying to add Bass Mid & Treble in place of the tone control and can't seem to get it right. Has anyone done this yet?
Quote from: ODwan on July 23, 2011, 10:07:47 AM
...if you change R5 to reduce gain you have to reduce C5 as well to maintain the frequency response.
This makes sense...
Quote from: shawnee on July 23, 2011, 09:15:24 PM
... (if you double the resistance, you need to half the capacitance):
So in the case of changing the original values of R5 and C5, 470R and 2.2uF, to
R5: 47R, C5 would be something like 4.7uF?
-Kaleb
Start with the original Plexitone values of 47 ohms and 2.2uF. The list that I posted above will all work.
I would like a little more bass, how do?
Quote from: andregarcia57 on September 13, 2011, 01:56:51 PM
I would like a little more bass, how do?
Maybe try different value for C7.
Loving my Boneyard so far, though I'm still trying to tweak it a bit. Using the stock LED clippers, the sound is bright and open. I'm also noticing that it seems to be just slightly scooped (or at least flatter than I'm used to). That's fine (and really I love this sound), but it doesn't work quite as well for lead lines.
So, if I wanted to add some midrange to the boost circuit only (for leads specifically), how would I do that? Would I have to change some cap and resistor values in that part of the circuit to cut bass and treble, or is there another way to increase midrange? Thanks in advance for any info.
Agreed. I would like to add bass and or mids to mine to get it more in the JTM range -- sounding more like the box of rock and less trebly.
C4 is a 330p cap and is there to stabilize that stage of the opamp and cut some highs. Maybe you could raise it. It won't add mids but if you cut the extreme highs, you would be able to turn the tone knob up more and that will add some mids. I haven't tried it so I am just taking a stab at it. Experimentation is where it's at!
Thanks for the suggestion, shawnee. Might try that.
Anyone else have a decent suggestion?
Here is an answer that I got from a forum brother who knows his stuff:
You could put a cap in parallel with R8. I'd start with about 100nF. Then put a cap to ground from the junction of R8 and C8. Maybe 10nF or 22nF to start. You will probably have to experiment with different values to get the desired response.
The more complex way would be to add another opamp stage and implement Craig Anderton's mid-range booster circuit. It can be found in this thread over at DIYStompboxes:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=81687.0
I'd put it at the output to the third stage, before the volume pot (you could put it on a little perfboard). Note that the bottom of that switch should go to Vref, not ground as shown!
Sweet! I was genuinely hunting a good option on my own, but hadn't found much. Thanks for digging, man. A PM will probably be on your way once I can take a crack at this.
I am obsessed with the Boneyard! I have gotten some great answers, suggestions, and tweaks on this forum. There are some great guys here who really know their stuff and are willing to help. I wish I could figure this stuff out on my own but it will take time. Please post and let me/us know how it worked and what values you settled on.
Hey, everyone. This is my first post here!
I bought a Boneyard from a guy awhile ago and have LOVED using it since then. What I haven't had time to do, though, is to think through some mods. I'm still at the paint-by-numbers stage of circuits but love learning more and more.
What I'm interested in is sort of two-fold:
1) Whether it's possible to mod the pedal to choose Plexi or AC (since they have similarities); and
2) What to do with the boost section that I never use (midboost?; rehouse?).
The AC and the Plexi are the same pcb but there are some other slight changes besides just the clipping. It isn't practical to do both in one pedal if you want them to exact. You may be able to just add a switched clipping section and split the difference between the other components but I haven't done it to give you any feedback on results.
You can just leave the boost off all together. Just don't even put the wires on the board if you don't want a boost. You can jumper the pot connects on the pcb but it still works as normal if you don't.
Is there a list of substitutions somewhere to turn this into an AC?
Quote from: shawnee on November 18, 2011, 12:36:39 PM
The AC and the Plexi are the same pcb but there are some other slight changes besides just the clipping. It isn't practical to do both in one pedal if you want them to exact. You may be able to just add a switched clipping section and split the difference between the other components but I haven't done it to give you any feedback on results.
You can just leave the boost off all together. Just don't even put the wires on the board if you don't want a boost. You can jumper the pot connects on the pcb but it still works as normal if you don't.
Yeah, I wondered whether there were just too many changes to make it worthwhile...
I suppose I could try including one stage of the AC instead of the boost?
Slimtriggers, I haven't made a list yet but it could be made. I've got both schematics around here somewhere...
Quote from: matticus on November 18, 2011, 07:44:39 PM
Slimtriggers, I haven't made a list yet but it could be made. I've got both schematics around here somewhere...
That'd be great! Thanks 8)
You can pull it all up on freestompboxes.org. Just search for plexituna and acetone. They have a great layout that includes an +/-18v supply omboard from a single TC1044 or LT1054.
Quote from: shawnee on November 18, 2011, 10:52:14 PM
You can pull it all up on freestompboxes.org. Just search for plexituna and acetone. They have a great layout that includes an +/-18v supply omboard from a single TC1044 or LT1054.
Found it! Thanks!
Please post and tell us what you think if you build either one.
I've got to learn how to change my notifications here so that when someone posts to a topic I get an email or something! I had forgotten to look back here.
Over winter break I'll probably mod the boost and build in a single stage of the AC Tone. I think I've got the parts for it already...
Quote from: shawnee on November 19, 2011, 01:33:37 PM
Please post and tell us what you think if you build either one.
Comin' up 8)
Awesome! I haven't etched yet but would like to at some point. Please check out my build in the build reports section. I explained the changes that I made the best I could.
Hi,
I have finished Boneyard, tested in studio conditions, and I think that this is one of the best OD pedal I have came accross. I have just one question: is there a way to rewire swithes for clean boost functionality or it is a tradeoff for a true bypass?
Cheers
Viks
It really is the best Marshall in a box that I have ever used. So you want the boost to be separate (to be able to turn it on without having the overdrive on)? That will not be a simple task as far as I can tell.
LOL - that's my layout.
I still haven't gotten around to boxing them up, but will be working on labeling the cases this weekend.
I actually had an AC-Tone that Niels (designer) recommended some mods for more gain/mids. VERY nice pedal, but just to big for my board.
I'm builing mine for regular 1590B(?) enclosure that just has just ON/OFF and GAIN1/GAIN2 footswitches; don't really need 'boost'.
I'll post some pics whenever they're done.
I was thinking the same thing about the Clean Boost only function of the Boneyard. I will attach a schematic showing how I made mine. I had it on a breadboard and it sounded really good like this. I have a AMZ mosfet boost clone, and I thought the boost sounded similar to that pedal and I was very impressed.
It is switch 2 on the schematic. I used a DPDT toggle switch to manually allow switching from normal circuit operation or boost only, which still maintains the input impedance and buffer, but then immediately switches out the gain/clipping portion of the circuit after the first op-amp stage/buffer through the volume pot and then switches in the series resistor/cap before the input of the boost stage op-amp. It works great and now the pedal is even more versatile (as if it wasn't already) and I can leave my other boost pedal in the loop, so I can use this boost for boosting the input of my amp. ;D
There are probably better ways to do this, but this is what I had come up with, so I figured I would share it with you guys.
Thanks for the contributions guys! This is my all time favorite Marshall sounding circuit and I appreciate any additional information that gets brought to the table.
I just finished this and LOVE it. However, mine doesn't seem to have much separation between the crunch and high gain (in any). My first question is, when in standard mode, should the high gain knob affect the gain at all? Mine does a little, if it's all the way down even with 'crunch' up there's very little gain. And IF that's normal, what would be the easiest way to add a little more gain or saturation to the high gain? Bigger pot?
There shouldn't be any interaction between the crunch and hi-gain pots. You might want to start a topic in the Tech Help section to troubleshoot your problem.
Ok, Thanks. Just thought I'd start here cuz if it was normal it'd be a mod but yes, I seem to have an issue ???
but how to get gain pedal?
R5 - 10ohm - would be a good start?