Hey guys,
First attempt at expoy, going to be doing it again! Makes the colors so vivid and love that gloss luster.
Had one problem. Some minor lifting around the nuts (probably form the pressure of the nut while tightening). Im hoping that it doesn't keep spreading!
Any tips on minimising that?
Attached a photo i uploaded to my facebook page of the arcadiator. You can see a little bit of the lifting around the 'rate' knob.
https://www.facebook.com/diyguitarpedalscomau
Cheers
Paul
I dunno about envirotex or even if it's the same situation - but when I tighten my nuts (haha) I find that the washers will squeeze what was previously thought to have been properly cured clearcoat out the edges, leaving a raised ring of clear around the washer.
I've only had this NOT happen once or twice, when the finished enclosure had been sitting there for a month, at least, before boxing anything.
Good point willy...well it FEELS rock solid, but i only let it dry for 24 hours. I scraped off some large blogs on the inside of the enclosure where it had dripped, they were much thicker then the top coat, and they were 100% dry...my be a chemical reaction thing...I'll leave the next one for a week next time and see if it makes any difference.
I dont mind a little bit of a ring around it, just hoping it doesnt get any worse.
Too soon ;)
We let it cure for 4 days.
it was rock hard but yeah..might take some time to adhere to the enclosure i guess
i find that no matter how long it cures, if i overtighten the nuts the ET lifts a bit as you've noticed. its not really a lift, more of a wobble but still an aberration and hence visible.
i also found that if you put in the hardware quickly (24 h) and not tighten too much, the washer sticks to ET so retightening the nuts after couple of days doesnt mess up the surface.
worth a try for you Paul, since you seem as impatient as I am :)))
good thing with ET is if you mess up, it pulls off in one piece and very little (if at all) cleanup sanding is necessary before giving it another go.
Thanks Muddy, ill try that next time. And you are quite correct. Im impatient. Thats why i had to move to powder coating to avoid screwing up enamel paintwork :D
with ET, as with anything pedal related, there seems to be a thousand ways to skin a cat. just look at all the variations in toner transfer process folks are getting. some get amazing results, others (myself included) cant get the damned thing to stick properly literally to save their lives. ET is a whole lot more forgiving (which is why use it exclusively these days) but there are still variations that make if impossible to make one perfect tutorial that would make it a nobrainer (however much does John and Cleggy's come close to that).
you just need to find out what makes it work for you.
Quote from: chromesphere on April 12, 2015, 08:22:00 AM
it was rock hard but yeah..might take some time to adhere to the enclosure i guess
I've never used Envirotex, but I've used plenty of other epoxies and paints. There's something you need to keep in mind - there's a difference between something being "dry", and something being "cured". Just because something feels dry to the touch and hard doesn't mean it's ready to be handled roughly, scrubbed, etc. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but curing is the process where the all of the gasses have finished evaporating out of the chemical solution, and the paint/glue/whatever is truly hard.
Quote from: juansolo on April 12, 2015, 08:07:17 AM
Too soon ;)
We let it cure for 4 days.
This. I usually give it a week which is probably overly cautious. I have left fingerprints when I thought it was rock hard.
Also did you use a step drill bit or a regular drill bit? A regular drill bit will lift the envirotex.
Juan had a tutorial, but 72 hours is the sweet spot.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: billstein on April 12, 2015, 02:34:11 PM
Quote from: juansolo on April 12, 2015, 08:07:17 AM
Too soon ;)
We let it cure for 4 days.
This. I usually give it a week which is probably overly cautious. I have left fingerprints when I thought it was rock hard.
Also did you use a step drill bit or a regular drill bit? A regular drill bit will lift the envirotex.
Yeah 4 days is a minimum for us. Most enclosures stand at least week before they get Rain-X'd and then drilled. We've never had a single one lift using the procedure detailed in the tutorial. Correct about the drill bits also. You need to use a stepper as a regular drill bit will lift it.
I've had good luck with an exacto used 24 hours or so after application. After a few days, it's too hard for a razor and needs a drill.
Hmm, maybe its my process. I drilled FIRST. I cut off the drips around the drill holes with a sharp knife. (carefully downwards). There was no ringing at this point only when i tightened the nuts. Is this the wrong way to do it?
that's what i do. drill, et, redrill. always with a step drill. never a problem. do you tape the holes from the inside before pouring et?
Are you filling the holes or letting it flow through?
There was a film over each hole which i poked with a toothpick (so it dripped through)
I always drill first then either tape the bottom or (more commonly) cover the holes with the artwork sticker and cut everything away after it dries.
why would you have it drip through?
I thought this would be easier to clean up and have less stress on the surface of the front of the enclosure while cutting :| Am I mistaken? First attempt here, so you know...lots the learn ;-)
I just tried ET for the first time today as well. I tested it on the bottom plate of a 1590B that I had painted with Liquitex paint and placed some stickers and dry transfer decals on. I mixed a plastic spoonful of the ET and the hardener. That worked out to be a very good amount for the test. Although there were a ton of bubbles after I poured it on, after a few minutes I blew on it and magically all the bubbles disappeared beautifully. I had spread the material around with a craft stick (basically a long thin popsicle stick) and I got it evened out nicely, except for a spot in one corner. The whole thing looked beautiful except for that one corner. Out of frustration I picked up the wife's hair dryer and started to blow on it. Unfortunately that brought in a ton of new bubbles that didn't go away after blowing on it again! Kind of frustrating. But this is all testing, and it's exactly why I decided to start with the bottom plate of the pedal. Overall I find ET interesting to work with, and I can already understand why people like using it. After a few more tries I should have the hang of it.
Apocalypto, I used a cigarette lighter to remove bubbles from the surface of my pedal. I know what your thinking, not the 'candle flame' type. A blue flame cigarette lighter which I can only guess is a butane cigarette lighter. This worked EXCEPTIONALLY well at not only removing bubbles (removed 100% of all bubbles) but also flattening blobby surfaces, as it tends to melt the plastic a bit. Give it a go next time, you will be like "O...M....G..." ;-)
Or just use a butane torch :) cig lighter is like 2 bucks though and will last 50 pedals probably...
Quote from: chromesphere on April 12, 2015, 07:21:15 AM
Good point willy...well it FEELS rock solid, but i only let it dry for 24 hours. I scraped off some large blogs on the inside of the enclosure where it had dripped, they were much thicker then the top coat, and they were 100% dry...my be a chemical reaction thing...I'll leave the next one for a week next time and see if it makes any difference.
I dont mind a little bit of a ring around it, just hoping it doesnt get any worse.
I generally let it dry overnight/one day. Then I started putting it in an oven at 70°C for 3h and then let it stand over night. Never had problems.
Just to bring in a little science: The epoxy here consists of the prepolymer (white capped bottle) which is a long chained molecule with epoxy groups at the end and the hardener which should be an amine (you can see it getting a yellow tone after a few month due to oxidation). The amine will start a ring-opening addition reaction with the epoxy end of up to 2 prepolymer molecules. Thus, you get a cross-linking of the prepolymer chains giving you a dense network, which is your final solid product.
So, what I want to say is, that the thickness of the film should not matter as much as the reaction is between the two components and not with air like others (silicone for example). It is more important to get the correct ration of the two components to get it the way you wanted.
Just give it another try, this stuff is pretty awesome.
Filling the holes gives you a very solid/rigid chunk of the stuff to drill through. We always cut the decal before and tape underneath so you get a nice plug of E-tex to go at. Never had a single life with this method and we've tried every way imaginable.
ditto!
and Felix, that sounds more like sorcery to me... :)
Quote from: juansolo on April 13, 2015, 07:57:52 AM
Filling the holes gives you a very solid/rigid chunk of the stuff to drill through. We always cut the decal before and tape underneath so you get a nice plug of E-tex to go at. Never had a single life with this method and we've tried every way imaginable.
Thanks John im going to try this next time i use a decal!
Quote from: m-Kresol on April 13, 2015, 07:52:05 AM
It is more important to get the correct ration of the two components to get it the way you wanted.
I actually measured the quantities on a digital scale, 10g's of each which i think worked very well. Pretty sure that was a tip that John spoke about in a thread i dug up when i was researching on the weekend.
Quote from: m-Kresol on April 13, 2015, 07:52:05 AM
Just give it another try, this stuff is pretty awesome.
I agree and thanks for the chemical explanation! This is the best finish i have had since i started building pedals 7-8 years ago. Better then powder coat clear coat. And DEAD FLAT. No particulars sticking up all over the place or uneven surface! The powdercoat underneath was actually uneven (there was an error when i baked it) but thats pretty well totally fixed and flattened thanks to the epoxy...im converted...this stuff kicks ass!
So while we are on the topic, does anyone attempt the sides? I did and they are a bit drippy / uneven, but i would like to try again with a paintbrush.
Quote from: chromesphere on April 12, 2015, 10:30:48 PM
There was a film over each hole which i poked with a toothpick (so it dripped through)
this is particularly handed when using 9mm pots, but usually I don't let it drop through, the effect is very nice.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Paul, below is my tutorial I did a few years back. It's long so if you can stomach pouring through it I've got all my follies in there.
With respect to the tex popping up a bit maybe because I wait a few days or more I haven't had that issue. Or maybe I did and didn't notice per se because it was so tiny and the knobs cover it all up but I know I've cranked down those pots before and don't recall any issues certainly not to where a knob wouldn't cover it up.
http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=37541&hilit=envirotex+tutorial&start=0
The first couple links in that thread are dead due to some SQL meltdown. But the last one showing the jig I use is still good.
Thanks John, read the...are...article :D There was definitely some good tips that I never even thought of! My first attempt was rough but, I guess its a bit like powder coating; even a rough job looks stellar compared to <past method>. Hoping to improve, I'm really impressed with it and due to some issues I was having with dual coating powder coat, now opens up a whole new world of pedal decorating!! I'm quite enthusiastic to have another go at it.
Quote from: chromesphere on April 14, 2015, 04:46:41 AM
Thanks John, read the...are...article :D There was definitely some good tips that I never even thought of! My first attempt was rough but, I guess its a bit like powder coating; even a rough job looks stellar compared to <past method>. Hoping to improve, I'm really impressed with it and due to some issues I was having with dual coating powder coat, now opens up a whole new world of pedal decorating!! I'm quite enthusiastic to have another go at it.
You know, I always meant to add pics to that thread...you know...just to make it even longer :o but I never did.
Forget this epoxy, my first pedal build/decal/lacquer was rough!
Okay Paul, after hearing your glowing review of ET over powder coat (and my problems with my waterslide decal ink diffusing into the clear powder coat), you may have just convinced me to give ET a try as a finishing step. Seems it would allow me to powder, clear, then decal, and ET on top for beautiful and more predictable results. If it works as you say, then at least all the dormant/clear powder I bought won't be for naught, lol!
Where's the best/cheapest place to get it in the States?
Has anyone come up with a method for getting equally fabulous side coating of the enclosure with the Envirotex?
dave
Quote from: Justus on April 14, 2015, 02:14:58 PM
Okay Paul, after hearing your glowing review of ET over powder coat (and my problems with my waterslide decal ink diffusing into the clear powder coat), you may have just convinced me to give ET a try as a finishing step. Seems it would allow me to powder, clear, then decal, and ET on top for beautiful and more predictable results. If it works as you say, then at least all the dormant/clear powder I bought won't be for naught, lol!
Where's the best/cheapest place to get it in the States?
Home Depot, Park's glaze in the paint section. Usually high in the shelf near the urethanes. Also, if you have a Michael's, if you print off the 40% coupon and bring it in it will bring the price down to what HD sells it for but there it is the Envirotex brand. That is the cheapest I've found. Now if you are going for some kind of gallon size then you'd have to scour the interwebz.
Quote from: davent on April 14, 2015, 03:07:31 PM
Has anyone come up with a method for getting equally fabulous side coating of the enclosure with the Envirotex?
dave
Weeeelllllll...... I don't think it is possible due to gravity. It will always be thinner. Sometimes I get those lines and other times not so much. A buddy of mine once told me why don't I work something up to where I dip it and hang it. It might be worth a shot I just never did it because you still would have to get it level after dipping or it would run off the top and leave a bare edge mostly. Still it will drip off the sides more than the top.
I did solve the jack holes 'cupping' by placing blue painters tape over the hole. I would cut the round tape pieces out just enough to barely grab the round hole of the enclosure so the epoxy just pours over it like it is solid. What blemish is left as I punch out the taped hole is covered by the jack hardware. The 9v doesn't leave you much margin for error though. The in/out jacks no problem.
Nope, always goes on too thin and looks more yellow than the top for some reason over time. Plus it wastes it. The decal is all that really needs protecting on our builds. It's either bare metal or powder which is durable enough on it's own.
Quote from: m-Kresol on April 13, 2015, 07:52:05 AM
So, what I want to say is, that the thickness of the film should not matter as much as the reaction is between the two components and not with air like others (silicone for example). It is more important to get the correct ration of the two components to get it the way you wanted.
That's a really good post with a lot of good info, Felix. With most epoxies, mix ratio is most important (although some are more sensitive than others). It's also important to make sure the resin and the catalyst are well mixed or it may never properly cure.
While not as important, the thickness of the epoxy can theoretically make a difference. Since epoxy curing is an exothermic reaction, thicker mixtures trap more heat in the center of the epoxy, causing the reaction to happen faster. That's more of an academic point when applying a thin or slightly less thin sheet of epoxy on an enclosure, but if you ever pot something with epoxy you might notice a difference.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: pickdropper on April 14, 2015, 05:58:30 PM
Quote from: m-Kresol on April 13, 2015, 07:52:05 AM
So, what I want to say is, that the thickness of the film should not matter as much as the reaction is between the two components and not with air like others (silicone for example). It is more important to get the correct ration of the two components to get it the way you wanted.
That's a really good post with a lot of good info, Felix. With most epoxies, mix ratio is most important (although some are more sensitive than others). It's also important to make sure the resin and the catalyst are well mixed or it may never properly cure.
While not as important, the thickness of the epoxy can theoretically make a difference. Since epoxy curing is an exothermic reaction, thicker mixtures trap more heat in the center of the epoxy, causing the reaction to happen faster. That's more of an academic point when applying a thin or slightly less thin sheet of epoxy on an enclosure, but if you ever pot something with epoxy you might notice a difference.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
To further this I did mess up not mixing it enough. I was attempting to keep the bubbles down by not stirring vigorously and what I ended up doing is not mixing it well enough. The outcome was that I ended up with tacky spots here and there after it dried. Even 3 years later I have a pedal where if I touch it there is just a slight tackiness and dullness to a few spots.
From there on out I was like a Tasmanian Devil when mixing. I figured I'd worry about the bubbles after the pour.
Quote from: Justus on April 14, 2015, 02:14:58 PM
Okay Paul, after hearing your glowing review of ET over powder coat (and my problems with my waterslide decal ink diffusing into the clear powder coat), you may have just convinced me to give ET a try as a finishing step. Seems it would allow me to powder, clear, then decal, and ET on top for beautiful and more predictable results. If it works as you say, then at least all the dormant/clear powder I bought won't be for naught, lol!
Where's the best/cheapest place to get it in the States?
Hopefully you have better luck with ET Steve! So far im very impressed with epoxy. I'm also liking the options it opens up. You can stick down objects on the front of the enclosure (was thinking of an Ace playing card for example). The text in my first post in this thread was drawn on with posca pens (waterbased paint pens). And the glossy look is second to none! Im quite happy to go to the extra step of epoxying for this look.
Quote from: TNblueshawk on April 14, 2015, 06:51:46 PM
From there on out I was like a Tasmanian Devil when mixing. I figured I'd worry about the bubbles after the pour.
Get this right...I READ THE INSTRUCTIONS...I know. Im sorry, wont happen again. When I read "stir vigorously for 2 mins" I figured they weren't messing around with that particular direction so I took it quite literally and stirred the living sh!t out of it. The bubbles are easy enough to get rid of (with the propane cigarette lighter), now ive read what happens when you don't do it this way I will continue on this path.
You don't need to mix really hard in a way that creates bubbles (I never do that). You just need to make sure it's mixed thoroughly. Two minutes of steady mixing works fine for me.
Now I just need to buy a vacuum chamber to evacuate the bubbles before pouring. :-)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had a HEAP of tiny bubbles when I pored. The mixture looked cloudy there was so many bubbles, but the final finish shows zero. Their pretty easy to get rid of but ill do what you recommend Dave and stir longer / steadier.
Quote from: chromesphere on April 15, 2015, 12:35:39 AM
I had a HEAP of tiny bubbles when I pored. The mixture looked cloudy there was so many bubbles, but the final finish shows zero. Their pretty easy to get rid of but ill do what you recommend Dave and stir longer / steadier.
juan's video is worth it's weight in gold. That's what I used to cut my teeth.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also it really helps as Juan discovered to heat the epoxy up. I float both the bottles in really hot water for a couple minutes. Measure it out with a digital scale, pour it on and spread it out with a chopstick. I get the chopsticks at the dollar store. I think you get 50 pairs for a buck.
I haven't done a ton of these things, probably 20 or so and the only problem I had was with the first one. I tried to spread it around after it was starting to set a bit and it left divots. I try to keep everything from the end of mixing to the pour and spreading within about 5 minutes.
Again, like others have said Juan and Cleggy's tutorial is golden.
Quote from: billstein on April 15, 2015, 02:23:16 AM
Again, like others have said Juan and Cleggy's tutorial is golden.
Is this the tutorial? Link seems to be broken. http://juansolo.demon.co.uk/stompage/envirotex.html
One other thing I was just thinking of, epoxy now makes these sticker letters ive been using a durable option. Admittedly I don't recall ever even losing a single sticker, with epoxy would be 100% durable AND look even better. Depends on the height of the sticker but I think could be about 1mm high. I guess even if the epoxy didn't build up to the same height as the sticker it would still look cool as the layer would still cover the peaks of the sticker, so it would create an embossed look I would guess.
(These: http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=24)
Have to try it on my next pedal!! So many new options :D
Dave is right too. I probably go overboard since I screwed the pooch a couple times on mixing and it was one of those things where you say this will never happen again to me! I'll make every other mistake but not this one again.
I used to blow on those bubbles but stopped because I was either spitting on my pedal or what I found is I was taking deep breaths to blow and while these fumes are not bad, compared to lacquer for example, I still didn't want to inhale it like that. But yeah, I use the old propane torch. Another mistake I made with that is if you lay on it too long you can sort of 'burn' the epoxy in a sense meaning you can give it a premature wrinkle of sort where the skin is dried before the underneath. So I have a pedal or two where I know where that is at but you almost can't tell probably due to the decal design, knobs etc... Man, I've made every mistake I think you can with this stuff :P
For what it's worth, what I mix this stuff in are those plastic cups, the ones that you might normally see in red and blue at parties kind of thing. They usually come in a big tube of cups, 24 or so, or maybe a double tube if you go to Sam's etc... Anyway, I only buy the ones that have ribbed lines which seem to usually be in some off color. I have a tube of light green ones right now with the ribs. Most are smooth inside and it is hard to tell if you are 50/50 on your mix. I line up 2 cups and use these lines so I know what to pour up to evenly that way my 50/50 mix doesn't get off. Then I pitch the cups. They are cheap.
Paul, it sounds like you are getting some great ideas. I had always thought about plopping some things down but I was always putting a decal on I didn't want to cover up so I never go around to it. I always thought a steampunk kind of thing would be cool where you add some cool items.
when mixing, i go by weight. i use one of those kitchen digital scales that measure down to grams. i put one of the plastic cups you mention on it, reset it to zero, the. pour say 5g of one and 5g of other, making a 10g total. if i accidentally go overboard on the second, i just add more of the first to make them even. even if their unit masses are different, it's such a small difference that i feel i'd make more of an error mixing them from different cups and losing some stuck to the sides of cups. mix vigorously, one big inhale next to the open window, one big exhale directly on ET and presto, no bubbles whatsoever!
Hey Paul, I recently tried to ET over a fresnel lens(for 3mm Led) and it almost covered it. Don't know exactly how much it sticks up above the surface but it's not much (maybe 1-2mm). Maybe 40% got covered by ET, I got cold feet on the pour. I HATE having the stuff spill over the edges and having to wipe for an hour as it continues to drop over the sides!
Here is the only pic I have:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/15/b20bff3949afab98de4255752a2a59fe.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oh I see thanks Philob. I think the sticker letters is worth a shot, they are pretty low profile. Might do it on the next pedal. Hey that looks pretty good on a bare enclosure! Is that a decal that you used for the graphics?
It is an etch. Then used acrylic paint - sons model car paints.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I learned from the Juan and Cleggy's tutorial, but now I pour it a bit differently. I use popsickle sticks to drip it into the holes (taped from backside) and fill them first. Then I pour a little on and begin spreading it around with the stick. If I need more I dip the stick and spread some more around. This allows me to use just enough ET to cover the surface, but not enough to run down the sides. I've found ET to be very forgiving this way.
I should say, though, that I use inkjet decals, and I put 4 coats of clear acrylic over them. This makes the decal very durable and it can take the application and ET spreading process very well.
Looks great Philob!
I used toothpicks antknee as I didn't have any popsickle sticks around. It worked ok, but I went a bit heavy upfront with the mixure. For any one else wanting to try I measured 10g of each, it was probably about 50% over what I needed for a 1590bb.
Just learnt lesson number 1, dont skimp on the epoxy. It looks really patchy. Also learnt that you can fix this by just dumping a heap of new epoxy on top (half-45 mins after first application), so not the end of the world. Will remember next time to lather it on. Also, didnt help that i forgot to heat up the mixture in hot water before applying... ::)
Quote from: chromesphere on April 17, 2015, 09:02:53 AM
Just learnt lesson number 1, dont skimp on the epoxy. It looks really patchy. Also learnt that you can fix this by just dumping a heap of new epoxy on top (half-45 mins after first application), so not the end of the world. Will remember next time to lather it on. Also, didnt help that i forgot to heat up the mixture in hot water before applying... ::)
Been there. I have reapplied after 24 hours though and been fine although you end up with a really thick coat on top but no biggie really.
That was my issue with worrying about 'saving money' by trying to put just enough on. I realized early on that if I wanted to continue to use this finishing method I just had to accept waste as part of the cost. I figured a can of lacquer goes pretty quick and those aren't cheap. I figured it more or less comes out in the wash on the waste. But you'll get better at figuring out your method and how to waste as little as possible.
Also, I used a 500w Halogen light in my garage and would shine it on my pedals. I would then squat down and try to get a eye level view of the pedal because, and maybe it was just me, I would miss an empty spot many times around the pot holes etc... That light helped me see real good. Also, as my garage door was always closed I needed it anyway.
Again, if you plan to do many pedals in your future the way to go might be trying to find a gallon of this stuff on line. I did see it sold like that a few years ago somewhere. Not sure about now.
Amazon actually has pretty decent prices, no coupons needed and most with free Prime shipping. You can get it in quantities from 4oz to gallons. I've got a 32oz pack coming in the mail today.
Quote from: Justus on April 17, 2015, 02:15:54 PM
Amazon actually has pretty decent prices, no coupons needed and most with free Prime shipping. You can get it in quantities from 4oz to gallons. I've got a 32oz pack coming in the mail today.
I get mine from Amazon.
Good old clear nailpolish.
Interesting idea with the nail polish Alan, have you got a photo or something of the results?
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/haastsbox_zpsd89fb0f0.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/haastsbox_zpsd89fb0f0.jpg.html)
You can see around the edges of the red lettering, in this one.
Doesnt look half bad Alan and i bet its 'tough as nails' (pun very much intended) :D
Looks like i stuffed up the ratio on this one, taking FOREVER to cure...i think i was lucky first time around.
Lesson 2: Dont measure microscopic amounts of epoxy, just too hard to do it accurately even with digital scales.
Quote from: chromesphere on April 18, 2015, 11:48:35 PM
Doesnt look half bad Alan and i bet its 'tough as nails' (pun very much intended) :D
Looks like i stuffed up the ratio on this one, taking FOREVER to cure...i think i was lucky first time around.
Lesson 2: Dont measure microscopic amounts of epoxy, just too hard to do it accurately even with digital scales.
I read in the past some guys would take the waste as they were pouring and pour it back over it I guess in an effort to save costs. I was always afraid that I'd pick up some trash, hairs or something so I never did this. It wasn't worth the $1.22 I might save each pour when you consider how much time and effort you invest to trying to make that puppy look good.
Alan, does the nail polish turn yellow over time? I only ask from the standpoint of if someone wanted to do a white pedal. The Envirotex does which is why I mostly stayed away from white pedals although I didn't mind the slight yellow for one here or there.
Haven't noticed any yellowing. There might be some.
Quote from: alanp on April 20, 2015, 04:52:22 PM
Haven't noticed any yellowing. There might be some.
It does, it's noticeable on some white builds. But most of mine you can't really tell.
The 2nd epoxy FINALLY hardened up. Heard that UV can help accelerate the curing process and if there's no difference within 2 days its hosed, but after 2 days its now cured...thank god for that. I will be keeping a closed eye on measuring the next one...
Quote from: chromesphere link=topic=20788.msg205756#msg205756 date=1429575397 I will be keeping a closed eye on measuring the next one...
/quote]
I'd measure with your eyes open :P
lol what a typo!!
I think i must have had closed eyes when i measured the last mixture...screwed on a nut and it mustn't have cured properly cause it made a mess. This epoxy can really make life hard if it doesn't co-operate! Im sure i will get better at it with time.