hi all, i haven't had time to post in a very long time because i have beed busy with work and lots of guitar builds 8) but i know this is the best place for help on pedals. ok so my target is very simple-take a basic wah vero layout, build it and make a wooden pivoting enclosure thing to activate the wah wah effect, but anyways theres a few problems. 1. it shows 16uf capacitors and i cannot find them anywhere at all like no where that would be small enough, also im not sure what type of capacitors the 10nf capacitors would be and what type the 16uf caps would have to be. any advice would be great-im not sure if this is the right place to post this build but any advice would be hugely appreciated so i can finally make my dream (well, some cheap wooden) wah pedal. thanks
aran.
This isn't your run of the mill wah. You could use 22uf electrolytic (usually polarized) caps in place of the 16uf's. The 10nf's ( .01uf ) should be film box capacitors (non-polarized). There are links on the project's page for stores, where you can buy these caps.
You could also go with 15uF tantulum caps in place of the 16uFs. You can grab those at Small Bear IIRC. Like Jball stated, this does not look like a run of the mill wah project. If thats whay you are after you may want to look for a different project.
Jon
Thank you all for the helpful replys but I cant find abyvwah pedal schematics that are controlled by p foot pedal
Thanks
Aran
Any wah*
also i forgot to say that when i look i cannot find any schematics on vero that use a foot pedal to control the frequency, like a cry baby wah. this is what i achieve to build. thanks
aran
Here is a link to a couple wah projects, including a crybaby:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/search/label/Wah?m=0
thank you so much im probably going to make the cry baby. also what was wrong with the first schematic i showed, wouldn't it work like a regular wah? thanks
aran
i also forgot to ask, the inductor on the cry baby, does it have to be a fasel since i live in the uk and the only one i can find is a 500mh axial inductor. thanks
aran
Quote from: aran.e666 on November 27, 2014, 04:55:14 PM
thank you so much im probably going to make the cry baby. also what was wrong with the first schematic i showed, wouldn't it work like a regular wah? thanks
aran
I don't know anything about it but it did not appear to have an inductor which is the heart and soul of the classic wah circuit.
thanks stomptown, do you think a 500mh axial inductor could work?
aran
I don't see why not , but I don't know much about choosing an inductor for wah's to be honest. I would think the biggest issue would be whether or not it will work with the layout. Maybe someone else can chime in?
well thank you for all the great replies, unfortunately i don't have the inductor and some parts yet but on the bright side, i found almost all the resistors needed. thanks
aran
You can get Fasel inductors from the following places
Banzai
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Fasel-Inductor-Red.html
Musikding
http://www.musikding.de/Dunlop-Fasel-Wah-inductor-yellow
Thomann
http://www.thomann.de/gb/jim_dunlop_fl02r_fasel_inductor_toroidal.htm
I also forgot to add, the two blue circles on the crybaby schematic, what are they? Thanks
Aran
Look up joe gagen for a pot and inductor. Great stuff.
You could also try inductorless, like color sound inductorless wah
Quote from: aran.e666 on November 29, 2014, 10:23:44 AM
I also forgot to add, the two blue circles on the crybaby schematic, what are they? Thanks
Aran
Those circles, if I'm understanding the question correctly, are polarized electrolytic capacitors. The large circle/cap at the top is a 220uf capacitor. The smaller cap near the bottom is a 4.7uf capacitor. The stripe at the bottom of each circle indicates the negative lead or cathode.
Check these links out.
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/09/vero-layout-guide.html
beavisaudio.com
Thanks for the reply, but im talking about if you look around the middle, behing the links there are two mini blue circles with white holes in the middle. Thanks
Aran
Also I forgot to ask, if the pot only has 1 and 2 wah wires going to it, is the 3rd wire ground?
I'm not too sure but I am wondering if the mini blue circles are associated with the output of the circuit. This layout is a buffered cry baby so I think you are supposed to run wires from the mini blue circles to the outer lugs of the SPDT (or DPDT if you need led) switch and another wire from the center lug to the output jack. If you noticed, the output wire is blue and matched the color if the circles, which would make sense. If you were planning to build a true bypass wah, we will need to find you the simplified true bypass version of the circuit. I personally don't like true bypass wahs for various reasons, mainly the fact that 3pdts are not quite long enough and make it hard to engage the effect. However, you may find a good dpdt that would work for true bypass assuming you do not need to use an led.
Again, I'm not totally sure on out those circles. Is anyone else familiar with them?
First off now that does kind of make sense but im using a spdt and well... about building a true bypass circuit... ive already built the crybaby so yeah but I think I know what you mean so what il do is hook it up when I get the inductor and trannies and than if it dosent work il use your idea and see if that works. Thanks again
Aran
No problem. When I get to my computer I'm going to look a little closer to see where the blue circles tap into the circuit. While I do think they have to do with the buffered bypass I don't think my wiring suggestion is quite right.
Well in my opinion that was truly a great idea because I guess it makes sense. Also what should go to pin 3 on the 100k pot? Thanks
Aran
I just noticed the layout lists "14 cuts and 8 links" but if you look at the layout there are only 6 jumpers! This seems to indicate the mini blue circles are supposed to be electrically connected to the overlying jumpers, hence 8 links! If you follow the schematic and compare to the layout it makes sense. I just didn't see it at first. You will need to tie the mini blue circle pads into your jumpers if you already soldered them in place.
Also, pin 3 goes to the output but we need to sort out the buffered bypass switching before we know if it goes to the switch or directly to the output jack.
Thanks. I didnt know that! Also it already has an output wire so im not sure? Thank you
Aran
Yeah, I will dig a little more but my guess is that these two wires connect to the outer SPDT lugs and the middle lug connects to the output jack.
Yeah awesome let me know if you find anything else on the wiring or how I should wire the bypass. Thanks
Aran
By the way how would I join the links when Iive allready soldered the links in allready? Thanks
Aran
Almost done the enclosure!
AFAIK the blue dots are where two links meet and are soldered to the same strip. you only have to hook up two wires to the pot because it is acting like a variable resistor. And wire the input, output, ground to the switch like madbean's general wiring diagram and 9v goes to the power plug or battery.
Quote from: snz728 on November 30, 2014, 04:57:58 PM
AFAIK the blue dots are where two links meet and are soldered to the same strip. you only have to hook up two wires to the pot because it is acting like a variable resistor. And wire the input, output, ground to the switch like madbean's general wiring diagram and 9v goes to the power plug or battery.
I'm glad someone verified that those were links! Lug 3 of the pot does need to be connected to the output according to IvIark.mThis is a buffered wah so the mad bean diagram in not applicable unless he wants a true bypass pedal with a buffer. Most propel remove the buffer if they go that route...
So I dont need the 3rd pin on the pot wired to the output on the switch? Thanks
Aran
Also im using a 6 pin spdt switch with the basic two top pins linked, middle lugs to output and last lugs to the mobo in/out. Thanks
Aran
I have finally finished the enclosure and also have ordered last parts. Thanks
Aran
Sorry, my bad about the 3rd lug of pot, etc. Havent built a wah in a while but I do recommend trying out different transistors with different hfes
Currently ive ordered the ones the layout shows but I will tty some time when I managed to put the whole build in a 1590b (lol) im building support bolts so it dosent lift up when I rock my foot forward and also im trying to get more 'action' on the pot by raising it (im using a lego gear and track). Any recommendations for transistors? Thanks
Aran
Going off now so drop a reply and il check later :) cheers
Aran
Guys I really need help, ive fully assembled the wah and checked everything 20 times over. When I have the bypass on I hear the sound of the amp which is of course what bypassing is but as I switch to the wah effect, I hear no sound at all e.g when I have my killswitch on and it makes a tiny fuzz sound because of the amp. Any ideas? Ive even probed the switch and it works how it should :( . Thanks
Aran
Did you wire lug 3 to output jack AND the wire connected to board output? Are you wiring switch for true bypass? Pics?
Yeah im wiring a dpdt switch so I wire the circuit output wo lug 3 on the pot and chain that to the switch? Thanks
Aran
Quote from: aran.e666 on December 04, 2014, 09:56:52 PM
Yeah im wiring a dpdt switch so I wire the circuit output wo lug 3 on the pot and chain that to the switch? Thanks
Aran
Can you post a picture or a link to the wiring diagram you are using? I'm not sure I understand how you wired it up.
Ok so I found out that the reason it wasn't working was because I used multi core wire as a link so I used solid core and well it works but it isn't a wah pedal, its a volume pedal? Any idea? If uou need I can post pics of the board and il post the voltages of the trannies. ThAnks
Aran
Quote from: aran.e666 on December 06, 2014, 10:11:39 AM
Ok so I found out that the reason it wasn't working was because I used multi core wire as a link so I used solid core and well it works but it isn't a wah pedal, its a volume pedal? Any idea? If uou need I can post pics of the board and il post the voltages of the trannies. ThAnks
Aran
I would post pics. It shouldn't my matter if you use solid or multi core
Ok so now I dont touch it for a day and now it dosent work again! It works as a volume pedal then later nothing!
Heres the bottom side
P.s the photos keep rotating, sorry about that
Aran
It's a bit hard to see whats going on with the wiring so I thought it would be easier to show you how it should be wired up. A pdf is attached below if you want to print it off.
Jon
(http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t358/stomptown/WahDiagram_zps642c8a89.jpg)
I'm not going to make myself popular with this opinion, but I think vero is bad for new people to learn on. It's too prone to error (solder jumping tracks, tracks not broken right, etc) compared to a quality designed fabbed PCB. I can't help but think that vero's popularity is a consequence of the old days, where it was either vero, perf, or try and etch (scary if you're new), all from magazine projects.
Alanp, sorry but im quite experienced with vero and have made lots of pedals. Yesterday I got the pedal to work as a volume pedal?! And today it dosent work again. Thank you for the wiring il redo the switch
Quote from: alanp on December 06, 2014, 06:01:56 PM
I'm not going to make myself popular with this opinion, but I think vero is bad for new people to learn on. It's too prone to error (solder jumping tracks, tracks not broken right, etc) compared to a quality designed fabbed PCB. I can't help but think that vero's popularity is a consequence of the old days, where it was either vero, perf, or try and etch (scary if you're new), all from magazine projects.
I would tend to agree, but I only got into this about 4 years ago so PCBs were already widely available so I'm not personally attached to vero, etc. I do like the challenge from time to time but there's always a bit of anxiety that goes along with it. I would put etching into this category as well. I threw quite a few of those into the box of fail in my first year.
Deeply sorry about that, early morning after too much last night, and I was going off your post count :-( :-(
Dont worry its ok I fully understand (I did sound big headed) like I say im not the best builder since im only 15 but I do build I just cant think why it wont work. Im currently plugging my guitar in to see if the new switch wiring works. Il get back to all of you in a min. Thanks
Aran
Okay, I got nothing, when I engage the effect I get loud popping noise and unengage I get nothing
Aran
Did you check the orientation of electorlytics? Did you use MPSA 18 transistors? IF not, did you verify the pinout and orient them accordingly?
Yes I checked all of them but It 'popped' when I rotated the pot and I got nothing when I bypass the effect. Thanks
Aran