Yup, it's confirmed. Even using a printed out drilling template I can't drill a round hole.
Seriously though, I need one of those drill presses that have a laser marking EXACTLY where the hole will be as I still can't seem to keep the lines straight. I just did a DD for a Boneyard, and that turned out ok - pretty good actually, but the NS I did has 4 switches in a row that looks like a queue of stoned blind guys lining up at a methadone clinic.
The Boneyard is possibly the best I've done, although the Random Stranger wasn't too bad.
It would probably help if I found a different method of drilling, instead of kneeling on the enclosure using a power drill with a step bit on the kitchen floor. Its not that the drill is slipping off the mark, but I think I need to tape the template down better, and use a small bit to do guide holes (did this with the boneyard, but not the NS, which might explain things) as I can't really see where I'm going with the step bit..
I do use a cheapass drill press nowadays but even that one has a runout (is that what it's called?) where even with my best foot forward the holes are still not absolutely straight in line. I'm told that even the huge floorbolted models have this issue and it's up to you to know the limits of the machine and compensate
The laser thing on it is a joke. It wanders left and right more than I do when I handdrill.
True, template needs to be taped well so no movement occurs. I only use it to centerpunch the location of the holes, I don't actually drill through the paper. The end result is certainly not perfect as if it were waterjet cut but it's certainly good enough that the deviations aren't sufficient to trigger my OCD.
Hi,
After you tape the template to the enclosure, center punch the drill points with something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aspring%20loaded%20center%20punch
I use one very similar to the Lisle 30280.
Remove the template and drill a small "pilot" hole on your center punch marks. Then drill your holes to size with your step drill.
You will get much better results because the step drill won't walk around as much.
Dave
Exactly what I do, even if I do use a drill press to do the actual drilling.
Also, a battery hand drill may prove easier to handle than a power drill and it has plenty of oomph to drill through aluminum.
Before I got the drill press I used one of these
(http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/02/uk-diy/bosch/B001DSQX0Egraphiclarge._V152899412_.jpg)
I have a drill press too, I just dropped a 1590a box, perfectly symmetrical....and to the left. *facepalm*
I have a center punch. I've abandoned it for a nail. I was having issues keeping the center punch exactly centered!! How messed up is that:( I just am careful how much force I use with the hammer. Pilot holes are still necessary for me even with the drill press.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I absolutely hate drilling enclosures. I've tried templates, measuring, etc, nothing seems to work. I started with quite possibly the cheapest and worst battery drill ever, and couldn't even get through the enclosures, then went to a drill press and that didn't work well. I was getting them CNC cut, but then the prices shot up, so back to the drill press now. As was said above, pilot holes (3mm) make a massive difference. I have found that making my own drill templates work slightly better then the ones in the build docs, but that's only because I made my ones to the exact size of the boxes I use.
Honestly though, get a cheap drill press, use pilot holes, and it makes a hell of a difference.
Quote from: PhiloB on September 06, 2014, 12:10:16 PM
I have a center punch. I've abandoned it for a nail. I was having issues keeping the center punch exactly centered!! How messed up is that:( I just am careful how much force I use with the hammer. Pilot holes are still necessary for me even with the drill press.
With a spring loaded center punch, you don't need a hammer. Just put it on the point you want to punch and press down. The spring drives the tip onto the surface and you get a nice dimple to start your drill bit in.
Dave
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: PhiloB on September 06, 2014, 12:10:16 PM
I have a center punch. I've abandoned it for a nail. I was having issues keeping the center punch exactly centered!! How messed up is that:( I just am careful how much force I use with the hammer. Pilot holes are still necessary for me even with the drill press.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You may want to look into the non-spring loaded center punches. You strike them with a hammer instead of using the spring. The advantage of them is that they are a bit easier to align than the spring-loaded variety.
Starrett makes a nice set. It's not super cheap, but it's high quality and will last a while.
I gave up on drilling by hand a couple of years ago, my results were a mess. Buying a drill press solved my drilling problems.
I usually buy painted enclosures and I don't want to scratch them, so I cover the enclosure with masking tape on all sides. Depending on the complexity of the drilling template, I might mark horizontal and vertical center lines for guidance. I tape my template on top of that. Usually I use a T-square to make sure that the template is on straight & all the holes in a row are the same distance from the edge of the enclosure. Then I use a center punch to mark the holes. I read in one of the forums that some pedal builders use an optical center punch https://www.grizzly.com/products/Optical-Punch-Set/H5781 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/Optical-Punch-Set/H5781). They are a little pricey, and I have been getting good results without one since I got my drill press.
The laser guide on my press is only good for rough alignment (I had to aim it myself as part of the setup when I got the press). It's important to use the drill press fence to keep a row of holes the same distance from the edge of the enclosure. Then you only have to worry about right/left alignment. When I drill, I bring the bit down to just above the enclosure and wiggle the enclosure left or right to get it perfect before I drill the hole. After I drill each hole I pull the enclosure off the press table and use a 3" paint brush to clear off the aluminum shavings. The shavings can scratch the paint and also prevent you from getting the enclosure tight against the fence.
I'd say it takes me more time to drill using a press, but the key is to take your time with each hole.
Quote from: 96ecss on September 06, 2014, 11:28:41 AM
Hi,
After you tape the template to the enclosure, center punch the drill points with something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aspring%20loaded%20center%20punch
I use one very similar to the Lisle 30280.
Remove the template and drill a small "pilot" hole on your center punch marks. Then drill your holes to size with your step drill.
You will get much better results because the step drill won't walk around as much.
Dave
All the above.
I start with the optical center punch.
(http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/gifts/05n5901s1.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5356_zps8a4bce53.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5357_zps7485758b.jpg)
Next i'll repunch to increase the size either with the Starrett and hammer or a spring loaded punch.
For drilling start with a 1/16" sharp/quality bit that didn't come from some big-box-have-everything wonder store, find a specialty dealer, buy quality bits, just because it has some pretty coating on it does not a good bit make.
If you have a well defined dimple and a good sharp bit you don't need a drill press, was on the wish list for years, now i'd never give up mine.
Drill with the quality 1/16" bit, when using a drill press i never secure the enclosure. Like bcalla describes a free enclosure (handheld) allows it to shift and center the dimple under the drillbit and that nice sharp bit is going to cut and not grab.
Next i'll step through 3/32" and 1/8" bits after which the step bit takes over if needed. Buy good bits, buy good step bits, it makes a world of difference.
If the center punch is where it's suppose to be the the tiny drill bit is going to put the hole where it should.
If you see a hole in the early going is astray you can file it it to center it before moving up to the next size drill. And if it's off at it's final size you can use a rattail file to enlarge the hole to center and the washers will cover the excess hole and keep whatevers mounted perpendicular to the enclosure face.
The laser guide on my drillpress is useless, to be of any use/accurate you need the crosshairs perpendicular, mine cross at such a shallow angle you can't tell where they cross.
dave
edit, Forgot the punch link, http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=45502&cat=1,42936,50298,
Christmas present... Santa's a handy guy!
That optical center punch looks like a great idea. I've never used one before. Thanks for posting that.
Quote from: Willybomb on September 06, 2014, 10:49:16 AM
It would probably help if I found a different method of drilling, instead of kneeling on the enclosure using a power drill with a step bit on the kitchen floor. Its not that the drill is slipping off the mark, but I think I need to tape the template down better, and use a small bit to do guide holes (did this with the boneyard, but not the NS, which might explain things) as I can't really see where I'm going with the step bit..
BUY A VICE. You can bolt it to a bench or a sawhorse or whatever you like, even a long flat piece of lumber that you then plonk on the table. Then you have both hands free for drill wrangling, and can place the enclosure at a good height to work with (as opposed to kneeling on the floor, peering at it.) Plus you can use it for all kindsa stuff.
Bought Dad one of those Bosch drills just yesterday for Fathers Day -- PSR18 something 2 or I. He says he's going to use it for both work (he's a sparky) and home.
Quote from: alanp on September 06, 2014, 06:33:15 PM
BUY A VICE. You can bolt it to a bench or a sawhorse or whatever you like, even a long flat piece of lumber that you then plonk on the table. Then you have both hands free for drill wrangling, and can place the enclosure at a good height to work with (as opposed to kneeling on the floor, peering at it.) Plus you can use it for all kindsa stuff.
Bought Dad one of those Bosch drills just yesterday for Fathers Day -- PSR18 something 2 or I. He says he's going to use it for both work (he's a sparky) and home.
Seconded. Buy a vice, or a clamp, or something. You need some kind of clamp to hold your enclosures in place. Anything else is just reckless.
I usually overdrill a bit, so that I can move the pots into alignment.
I use the following without issues:
-Craftsman 12" Drill Press with Laser and LED Light
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-12inch-drill-press-with-laser-and-led/p-00934985000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-12inch-drill-press-with-laser-and-led/p-00934985000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1)
The Laser track can be pretty useless since the diameter of the stepper drill bit will block the laser some. I also set it to the fastest belt drive setting. If you drill on slower settings I found that the enclosure will heat up to quick and cause the drill bit to bind/catch.
-4" Drill Press Vise
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-jaw-capacity-drill-press-vise-30999.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-jaw-capacity-drill-press-vise-30999.html)
Workes perfectly for my needs and it was cheap. Win Win
-Cheap step drill bit
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html)
I buy a new set 2 times a year it seems and they work just fine. I use them just on aluminum to help them last longer.
-Automatic center punch
http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-center-punch-with-brass-handle-62141.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-center-punch-with-brass-handle-62141.html)
I will sharpen it with a file a few times a year. I only use it on aluminum so it will last longer.
I use paper templates made in Photoshop to scale. I print them and tape them to the enclosure and center punch them. I too over drill a tiny bit to help get a better fit with pots.
Cody