I heard laminators mentioned once or twice. How does this help the transfer process? Perhaps 'bean or someone else could jump in and enlighten me?
I think it does the job of providing heat and pressure to stick the toner on the copper. I've been tempted to try it, but the entry price is steep. I'd hate to buy the wrong one and be stuck with a laminator. :)
http://www.mybinding.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/52259/GBC-Heatseal-9-Inch-Creative-Pouch-Laminator-1701870
I got mine for $25 on eBay. Money well spent....
Can someone give a reader's digest rundown of how to use it? Do you have to use an iron to get the paper to stick initially, and then feed the board through the laminator?
I have had great success just using a minuscule amount of tape to secure the end I'm feeding into the laminator. Usually after 1 pass, it's at least adhered enough to not worry about. When I'm for sure it's not going anywhere I feed it from different angles and directions. I think I've had pretty good results trying to do at least 10 passes and letting the board cool by itself. Then I proceed with soaking/getting that pulp off while trying not to leave a mess for my wife to get mad about (; I got mine at office max for 35 dollars. Beats the hell out of the guesswork iron method IMHO.
Quote from: madbean on April 15, 2011, 10:50:49 PM
http://www.mybinding.com/.sc/ms/dd/ee/52259/GBC-Heatseal-9-Inch-Creative-Pouch-Laminator-1701870
I got mine for $25 on eBay. Money well spent....
Brian, do you use this with PNP Blue or have you switched to some other method?
I'm asking because I've seen this "Foil" method by Pulsar, http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/overview.html
anyone know the answer to the above?
he uses sterling ultra digital paper.
I'm intrigued but confused. Wouldn't the lamination melt under the iron? Or is it a whole different process from PnP Blue?
I'm not sure what your asking but the entire process is he same using both methods except your using the laminator instead of a iron.
toner on glossy paper (or pnp or similar) > iron or laminator or both > remove excess paper > etch
did that answer your question?
i was asking because according to the Pulsar people in the link above, PNP Blue is too thick to work well in a laminator.
I guess that depends on how thick your fr4 is. I've used pretty thick photo paper with success with my laminator. I have never tried the blue stuff.
Quote from: jimmybjj on May 05, 2011, 03:46:04 PM
toner on glossy paper (or pnp or similar) > iron or laminator or both > remove excess paper > etch
I think I understand now. The laminator releases heat when the board passes through so it would work "similiar" to what is being done between the PNP and iron? So if you wanted to you could iron it on first, then run it through a laminator, then remove it all and etch?
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on May 05, 2011, 03:57:32 PM
Quote from: jimmybjj on May 05, 2011, 03:46:04 PM
toner on glossy paper (or pnp or similar) > iron or laminator or both > remove excess paper > etch
I think I understand now. The laminator releases heat when the board passes through so it would work "similiar" to what is being done between the PNP and iron? So if you wanted to you could iron it on first, then run it through a laminator, then remove it all and etch?
That's my understanding. Running it through a laminator guarantees equally heat and pressure to the board, which helps get a good transfer. I want to try this method out, but I'm curious about the PNP, because i was thinking of making the switch from magazine paper.
Ian
i use PNP and it get increasingly difficult to do boards larger than the iron. it would be nice to only use one material for both methods.
Quote from: aziltz on May 05, 2011, 03:51:46 PM
i was asking because according to the Pulsar people in the link above, PNP Blue is too thick to work well in a laminator.
Well, that's because they want you to buy their transfer paper :)
PNP will work just as well as anything else. The secret to getting the best transfer is using an iron and a laminator. The iron applies more direct heat and pressure to a very small area, and the laminator applies some heat and pressure over a very wide area. I iron for a bit, run it through the laminator a few times and then iron just a bit more. This gets amazing results..especially with the Sterling paper (which costs about 4 cents a page).
great thanks for your comments.
I found this link from diystomps where you were plugging the stuff,
http://www.ajandspaper.com/sterling-ultra-digital6.html