hi guys.....so I messed up drilling my in/ out holes on an enclosure and I'm kinda bummed about it. Is there anything I can use to fill it so it won't be seen? I was thinking paintable caulking then utility knife it flat or am I better off just putting a plate over it?
I've been wondering this too. I've oaffed a few enclosures myself.
this is a great question. I usually use my drill fails for the boxes I do for myself. it seems to me you could use some JB Weld to fill the hole, sand it down and try again. i'm going to do a little experiment with that idea tomorrow, and i'll letcha know how it turns out!
LT
Decorative stickers! Probably not the answer you were hoping for, but I've done it before. A couple of mine also have "venting holes" to "prevent overheating"...
Quote from: TreeSlayer on February 01, 2014, 01:05:16 AM
this is a great question. I usually use my drill fails for the boxes I do for myself. it seems to me you could use some JB Weld to fill the hole, sand it down and try again. i'm going to do a little experiment with that idea tomorrow, and i'll letcha know how it turns out!
LT
This does work and is the best way I've found if you are willing to invest the time.
Painter tape on the inside and use bondo/body filler on the outside and sand it smooth. I used to use this method when fixing holes in mini bikes when I was a kid.
Might work.
Cody
Quote from: selfdestroyer on February 01, 2014, 01:09:32 AM
Painter tape on the inside and use bondo/body filler on the outside and sand it smooth. I used to use this method when fixing holes in mini bikes when I was a kid.
Might work.
Cody
I have a big can of that stuff not even opened....ill give it a shot.
JB Weld will do it too without the off-gassing of the Bondo. With Bondo i also had it eventually showing through the paint so you might need to use a primer like BIN with shellac that will prevent bleeding through.
I kinda figure the JB Weld would be a stronger fix than Bondo, but then again, either would work I reckon...
LT
Quote from: davent on February 01, 2014, 01:14:02 AM
JB Weld will do it too without the off-gassing of the Bondo. With Bondo i also had it eventually showing through the paint so you might need to use a primer like BIN with shellac that will prevent bleeding through.
Yeah I think ideally jbweld would be best but no sense in buying it if I already got the body fill....which just got me thinking....marglass body fill I think would work well also
Nice I have a huge tube of JB weld! Gonna fix my 1590BB tomorrow! Can't wait to try this.
Quote from: flanagan0718 on February 01, 2014, 01:34:57 AM
Nice I have a huge tube of JB weld! Gonna fix my 1590BB tomorrow! Can't wait to try this.
let us know how this turns out for you....
LT
Will do. I'll take a bunch of pictures and do a write up on it.
Quote from: flanagan0718 on February 01, 2014, 01:39:30 AM
Will do. I'll take a bunch of pictures and do a write up on it.
awesome :)
+1!!
Seems like there is a tutorial around here on just that subject and I think it included jbweld and painters tape
If you're in Yankee land, then I believe Bondo is good. If you're the UK side of the pond, then car body filler is good. Put something on the inside of the enclosure like duct tape, fill the hole in (put excess amounts in), then when it's dry, sand it down so it's flat with the enclosure then spray over it.
It should work well enough that no one will notice the wrongly drilled holes.
If it makes you feel better, I have a drill press, and no matter how well I mark the drilling holes out, they still aren't 100% accurate.
Sent from my thumbs using Tapatalk!
I've used Kneed-It, works pretty good.
http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-multi-purpose/
If you decal and Envirotex you are good. I would know. Decal, epoxy, dry, flip it and put hot glue in the hole, done.
Quote from: TreeSlayer on February 01, 2014, 01:05:16 AM
this is a great question. I usually use my drill fails for the boxes I do for myself. it seems to me you could use some JB Weld to fill the hole, sand it down and try again. i'm going to do a little experiment with that idea tomorrow, and i'll letcha know how it turns out!
LT
I use JB Weld to fill misdrilled holes to often. I tape the inside , fill the hole, smooth the outside and let dry. Then I sand and paint, or at least I plan on painting more of my enclosures.
I've epoxied a penny to a bad hole.
Quote from: playpunk on February 01, 2014, 01:50:59 PM
I've epoxied a penny to a bad hole.
I could see that looking kind of cool.
If the hole is on the top of the enclosure, I'd probably just use a full face label and cover up the hole with it. It would look just like any other pedal from the outside. It is by far the simplest solution and you may want to cover up the fix for the hole anyway.
If the hole is on the side, either a hole plug or maybe the JB weld.
I usually glue something decorative on the box to cover misdrilled holes. Michaels and other craft stores sell all kinds of cool little flat stone-like thingies you can use for this. I got a bag of what looks like rune stones, and I've used them several times to cover either mis-drills or if I change the position of a control.
Here's an example:
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh218/reverse_engineer/fj1-1.jpg)
Just grabbed some quick set jb weld.....gonna patch these holes on my break at work, will post pics at midnight or so when its all set.
the jbweld is the answer guys... once primed at painted it'll be just like they weren't there
My question here would be: what to do next? After repairing the hole. If u have to drill again, some mm around the previous repaired hole, once u drill the new hole, the "walls" of the repaired hole will resist to the drill shear?
Quote from: Gledison on February 02, 2014, 02:21:52 PM
My question here would be: what to do next? After repairing the hole. If u have to drill again, some mm around the previous repaired hole, once u drill the new hole, the "walls" of the repaired hole will resist to the drill shear?
This was my thought as well, and I think it's impossible. But the results shown with the new hole well clear from the previous one look really good, once painted, nobody will notice! And I seriously had to refrain from posting improper stuff regarding the 'incorrect hole' part........ ;)
Paul
Quote from: DutchMF on February 02, 2014, 04:21:18 PM
Quote from: Gledison on February 02, 2014, 02:21:52 PM
My question here would be: what to do next? After repairing the hole. If u have to drill again, some mm around the previous repaired hole, once u drill the new hole, the "walls" of the repaired hole will resist to the drill shear?
This was my thought as well, and I think it's impossible. But the results shown with the new hole well clear from the previous one look really good, once painted, nobody will notice! And I seriously had to refrain from posting improper stuff regarding the 'incorrect hole' part........ ;)
Paul
Paul, maybe one could do, is to drill first the right hole, which is normally pretty close to the wrong hole😛! And use this techinque to cover the wrong hole😜! Agterwards just need to file it off anf adjust the new hole! Bahhhhh so many holes!!😛👌
Quote from: Gledison on February 02, 2014, 02:21:52 PM
My question here would be: what to do next? After repairing the hole. If u have to drill again, some mm around the previous repaired hole, once u drill the new hole, the "walls" of the repaired hole will resist to the drill shear?
I'm not sure....but I was told and it says on the package jbweld is drillable. I agree with the other post that says drill it right the first time.....I was way off with my jack holes as I underestimated the length of the PCB so the new holes don't even come to the walls of the old. I have the new holes drilled now....that other exposed hole is actually for my dc jack...I painted the enclosure today and will post my finished stage fright tomorrow or tuesday in the build report section. overall I'm happy with the end result of the jbweld and glad I didn't have to order a new enclosure and repurpose that one
There used to be a tutorial on Small Bear for isolating a metal power jack- in essence drill an oversized hole for the jack, repair the hole with Bondo then redrill in the center of your Bondo patch the correct sized hole for the power jack and you now have an isolated metal power jack. How durable it proved to be, no idea (he sells shoulder washers for the job now), as long as the entire hole is only through one of the materials there should have no problems drilling.
I drilled a 1590b for a power supply I was working on a long time ago. This is the enclosure I am planning on writing a short instructional PDF on. I will fill, paint, and re drill the enclosure. I am planning on re drilling one of the JB Weld spots to test this anyways. I will be sure to include this in the PDF. I should probably re drill before I paint for demonstration purposes.
Quote from: davent on February 01, 2014, 01:14:02 AM
JB Weld will do it too without the off-gassing of the Bondo. With Bondo i also had it eventually showing through the paint so you might need to use a primer like BIN with shellac that will prevent bleeding through.
this works great and super fast. put a slice of packing tape across the void from the inside of the enclosure. mix and apply the jb weld or any epoxy weld type playdoe. it doesnt need alot let it harden and block sand it flush with the enclosures surface. I have done it hundreds of times. I repurpose a lot of dfferent things as enclosures. I had a freind who would even use it as a skulpture medium. it can be used to add a 3/d element to projects as its.drillablea sandable, etc... much more sturdy than bondo too.
....Meanwhile after reading JohnL's post. "what an asshole I am, I really need to read the whole thread before I post anything....better go kneel in some busted pottery and scourge myself fora few hours."