I just finished a pedal with my first decal and clear coated it. I used Rustoleum and wasn't that happy with the results. What clear coat do you use?
Thanks
It really depends on the type of base layer you are clear coating over (it has to be compatible). So if in doubt, try to stick with the same manufacturer and same product line of products.
I mostly use powdercoat these days (I have my own little setup) but I have had good luck with acrylic clear coat overall.
Clear nail polish.
Quote from: billstein on December 01, 2013, 05:59:58 AM
I just finished a pedal with my first decal and clear coated it. I used Rustoleum and wasn't that happy with the results. What clear coat do you use?
Thanks
Hmm. I settled on Rustoleum after poor results with Krylon. I put on 3-4 coats of clear.
Quote from: bcalla on December 01, 2013, 02:15:25 PM
Quote from: billstein on December 01, 2013, 05:59:58 AM
I just finished a pedal with my first decal and clear coated it. I used Rustoleum and wasn't that happy with the results. What clear coat do you use?
Thanks
Hmm. I settled on Rustoleum after poor results with Krylon. I put on 3-4 coats of clear.
The problem I had was it didn't go on evenly. It kind of pitted in a few spots and because I put on 4-5 coats the pits were deep and very noticeable. Maybe my technique sucks.
What kind of Rustoleum do you use?
Automotive grade clear coat is what is use. Start out with 2 or 3 light coats and them maybe 1 or 2 heavier coats.
Quote from: jimilee on December 01, 2013, 04:12:29 PM
Automotive grade clear coat is what is use. Start out with 2 or 3 light coats and them maybe 1 or 2 heavier coats.
do you get that in an auto parts store?
I paint with artists acrylics, no nasty noxious fumes. Over that i go with Target 7000 Waterborne Lacquer, can spray in the house year 'round without killing brain cells. This is the lacquer now sold by StewMac for finishing guitars. I used to use StewMacs waterborne lacquer until they discontinued it and replaced it with the Target (maybe was just a label change?).
The Target is available from various sources so you might find it locally.
General is another brand that gets good reviews for their waterborne lacquer but haven't had to track that one down.
Edit. I use an airbrush for application (tedious but does a great job), the website says it can be brushed but haven't tried that. Also achieved good results with Polycrylic and Varathane two more waterborne clears for wood. The Target 7000 is far superior to those in clarity and ease of application but really good results can be had with them.
All three will give you a really nice satin finish even as gloss finishes.
Quote from: alanp on December 01, 2013, 07:32:36 AM
Clear nail polish.
I'm not joking on this one, btw. Far less hassle than rattlecan stuff.
Quote from: billstein on December 01, 2013, 03:29:11 PM
Quote from: bcalla on December 01, 2013, 02:15:25 PM
Quote from: billstein on December 01, 2013, 05:59:58 AM
I just finished a pedal with my first decal and clear coated it. I used Rustoleum and wasn't that happy with the results. What clear coat do you use?
Thanks
Hmm. I settled on Rustoleum after poor results with Krylon. I put on 3-4 coats of clear.
The problem I had was it didn't go on evenly. It kind of pitted in a few spots and because I put on 4-5 coats the pits were deep and very noticeable. Maybe my technique sucks.
What kind of Rustoleum do you use?
Pinholes in the clearcoat would suggest that there are some contaminates on the surface. Here are a few quick tips when using rattle cans:
1) Use vinyl/nitrile gloves when handling the enclosure. Any oils from your hands on the raw surface or on a fresh coat of paint will cause other layers to get pinholes. Ensure the enclosure is totally clean before spraying. I like to put on some rubber gloves and wipe down with Acetone with a cloth (or lint-free paper towel) until it comes out clean.
2) Shake the can well. An old joke around here is when someone asks, "how long to shake the can?" and you reply "until the ball stops rattling." :)
3) If you take some warm/hot (but not boiling water) and immerse the rattle can into it for a few minutes before spraying it will warm the contents and the spray will go on smoother. This makes the paint atomize well in the air.
4) Ensure the enclosure is totally clean before spraying. I like to put on some rubber gloves and wipe down with Acetone with a cloth (or lint-free paper towel) until it comes out clean.
5) If you are using rattle cans, you may want to pick up a used cheap toaster oven at a yard sale/surplus store to "bake" the paint on and speed up the drying process. This same toaster oven would come in handy if you ever decided to do your own powdercoating as well.
Quote from: billstein on December 01, 2013, 04:25:22 PM
Quote from: jimilee on December 01, 2013, 04:12:29 PM
Automotive grade clear coat is what is use. Start out with 2 or 3 light coats and them maybe 1 or 2 heavier coats.
do you get that in an auto parts store?
I do
This stuff, but I'd really like to find something better:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51-YBdzuVgL._SL1500_.jpg)
It's more durable than what I used to use, but still not quite there for wrap-around art. The good news is that it doesn't make 95% of acrylics run even with a slightly thicker coat.
I don't spray all that much (and I am somewhat terrible with it), but I try and find acrylic paint as it is less prone to wrinkling.
Polycrylic
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_4268.jpg)
Varathane
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_4133.jpg)
Target 7000
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/Cave%20Dweller/IMG_5386_zps173bd64a.jpg)
Started this with StewMacs waterborne lacquer ran out before i could apply ablack decal, it was discontinued so couldn't finish. Switched to Varathane and using decalling total fail. Finally abandoned the decal idea and went with a wet toner transfer and Target 7000 topcoat. By the time it was finished the top clearcoat is layers of Autoair clear base coat, StewMac waterborne lacquer, Varathane, GAC200 and finally Target 7000. All waterbased and still no evidence of incompatability.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_4864.jpg)
Haven't noticed Envirotex mentioned.
I don't really clear coat with enviro text. I did notice with the automotive clear coat, I don't get any yellowing though.
Just plain vanilla alkyd or nitro high gloss clear from a spray can. Get a spraying mask with carbon filters as well. It's a bit expensive, but I so should've bought this years ago (glad I did last month, never again without).
I use a Molotow Sealer Glossy spray can. 3 layers.
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Molotow-Sealer-Glossy.html
Quote from: jimilee on December 01, 2013, 04:12:29 PM
Automotive grade clear coat is what is use. Start out with 2 or 3 light coats and them maybe 1 or 2 heavier coats.
+1 on automotive acrylics!