Can somenone give me any tips how to desolder easily components on Osh Park pcbs?
I have a desoldering pump but every time its very difficult to desolder on these pcbs,
Do you think a better desoldering pump will make my life easier?
I have this one,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industry-Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Pump-Removal-Vacuum-/200965322230
Everything goes well when I desolder my etched pcbs, I am facing this issue only on Osh park pcbs.
I guess this is a through-hole issue, not really an OSH-park issue? Correct me if wrong.
There's nothing wrong with your vacuum pump I guess, but yes it can be tricky. I use a combination of solder braid, vacuum pump and A LOT of swearing ;) ... sometimes it is easier to add some solder before you take it off.
Cheerio
Yes its a through hole issue and its not an quality issue of OSH park,
Yesterday I spent 30 min to desolder 2 capacitors and I finaly desolder after a lot of swearing and one finger burning....
I thought it was my fault of using a lot of solder but finally after a lot of try outs I believe its the desolder process its self.
Do you think a desolder iron will make my life easier?
Quote from: teknoman2 on September 19, 2013, 09:08:10 AM
Do you think a desolder iron will make my life easier?
Yea... I guess so. But I never have bothered getting one myself, I consider it a bit overkill. BUT that's just me.
And also: when I desolder 2-legged components (caps, resistors...) I use to cheat: I heat it while pulling one leg out of the hole with a pair of pliers. Then, when the component out of the whole its easy to remove residual tin.
Quote from: Vallhagen on September 19, 2013, 09:19:44 AM
...
And also: when I desolder 2-legged components (caps, resistors...) I use to cheat: I heat it while pulling one leg out of the hole with a pair of pliers. Then, when the component out of the whole its easy to remove residual tin.
I basically do this too with caps and resistors, but I usually don't even try to save them. I just clip the leads off, clamp the forceps on the lead and use their weight to pull the lead out when I heat it. The lead usually takes a bunch of the solder with it. I then use the solder wick to take off enough of the rest of the solder to clear the hole. It's much faster this way and I figure the reduced risk of damaging the PCB is well worth the cost of the wasted part. (I socket any parts that have real value).
Yeah, two sided boards are much more difficult.
This works well, especially for the cost.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
But...this works AWESOME. I bought one about 4 months ago and wish I would have long ago. I can desolder a cap in 2 seconds flat.
http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-Desoldering-Kit-With-808/dp/B000ARPULW
Josh
I have a similar pump to you, teknoman2. I start out as Vallhagen and RobA do, but here's my specific technique for clearing the hole once the component is out: I use one of those "third hand" tools to stand the board up vertically. I get a little solder on the tip of my iron and apply it to the pad on one side of the board. Then I place the pump on the other side. Which side doesn't matter; just put the pump on the side where you can get it to be flat on the surface of the board most easily. I usually like to do it on the component side so there's no chance of the iron hitting a component.
Once you see the solder flow, hit the button and that should clear the hole quickly.
I use the same method as Bret608. At times, with too much desoldering and resoldering the desoldering pump has managed to suck the metal pad off the PCB, which is a bummer when it happens, not sure if I'm the only one with that knack...