I have a question, and this has been an issue on 2 of the 3 pedals I've enclosed.
When I print off the drill template (with no scaling), it does not necessarily line up with the enclosure. The top, for example, is narrower than the enclosure top. So when you drill the holes, they are a little too close together, for the pots.
I REALLY noticed this when doing my ZeroPoint SDX...that thing was a BEAR to get together...I was just wondering if I'm missing something, or if there is anything that will make it a little easier to get the drilling correct.
Thanks,
Bryan
I generally don't use prints of the layouts, as I often don't use the same size of enclosure as would be listed in the build documents. Typically, for pot mounted enclosures, I use a digital caliper to measure between the center lugs of the pcb to get my X dimension, measure the offset of the pots for the Y measurement, and then lay them out against the centreline of the enclosure.
I usually overdrill all pot and switch diameters by one step on my bit - this gives me a little play in case I haven't drilled the hole exactly right or off in my measurements.
I've found this works in about 90% of the cases, it gets a little hairy when you get into a couple of board mounted DPDTs and three plus knobs, in which case I usually end up wiring the pots off board.
When you print the PDF, you have to select "no page scaling." If you're trying to print from your browser, you might not have this option, so you'd have to download the PDF and print locally.
Dremel. Dremel fixes everything!
I use the drill templates in the build doc, then measure them after. I'm about to design my own drill temple templates as a rough guide before measuring. I'm just using a ruler for the measurements, but I do need to get some calipers at some point.
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I started doing my graphics in Inkscape last year.
I create a blank Inkscape document with the enclosure outline. Then I create a layer called 'Template', and I import the page from the pdf with the drill template & line it up with the outline. Before creating any graphics, I print that out and see if it lines up to the board with the pots & switches mounted. If not, I resize the template layer until it is perfect. It can then be used to drill.
At that point it is possible to create the graphics on a new layer leaving the template visible underneath.
Then I know that (if my drilling is accurate...) the graphics will line up with the drilled holes.
I never used a provided drill template, I always make my own based on measurements of the boards and the components (pots, jacks, switches etc.) and the dimensional drawings Hammond has on their website. They make them available in dwg format, and since I work with Autocad for a living, translating that to a drill template is quite easy. Most of the copies of Hammond enclosures are close enough so my templates usually also work for those. If anyone needs something special, give me PM, I'll be glad to help you out!
Paul
Lots of times I use the drill template (printed out w no scaling like Jon said) but alter it with mechanical pencil and ruler after measurement. If it is a pcb with board mounted pots I try to remember to use the actual pcb to take my measurements before I populate it. If you populate it first, accuracy isn't going to be possible.
Anyway, the middle drill of a pcb mounted pot is right around 16mm from the center of the pot shaft. So I just lay the pcb on the template, mark through the center holes, and then get as close to an accurate crosshair mark as I can, 16mm away. Sometimes it matches up pretty well with the existing template crosshair; sometimes not so much.
I center punch through the altered drill template, then drill a small pilot hole. then I go up one size or so on the drill bit and drill them through again. The I go straight for my step bit.
Some of what you may be running into is that enclosures themselves are inconsistent.
125B's are not all made in the same place, with the same cast, and at the same time. So, the end result is boxes that are made very similar to each other. Same is true with all these boxes. There are tolerances that Hammond, New Sensor, and a myriad of chinese manufacturers allow for in these boxes, same as our caps and resistors.
Another factor is potentially the scaling. One thing I like to do is put a reference mark on things. So, basically, you make a 1"x1/2" rectangle on the document you're trying to print. When you print, measure that with a good ruler. Is it still 1"x1/2"? Then you've printed the right scale. If it isn't, then you have scaling issues.
Jacob
Lots of good advice here. Definitely print with no page scaling. PDF works best for me. If using Inkscape I always export to PDF then print in the PDF viewer (more stable). The basic layout that you print on regular printer paper will be the same on waterslide or decal as long as the settings are the same. So if it doesn't line up on a template (made of regular paper) it will not work on your decal.
I print out a template and then line it up the best I can on the enclosure. Apply a couple pieces of masking tape and then I use a spring loaded center punch to mark the drilling locations. Use a step bit, and drilling one size over as aforementioned works great for that "wiggle room". The punch is a must so the bit doesn't wander. I suppose you can "macgyver" a punch from a nail and a hammer but you can find cheap punches at places like harbor freight etc.
When creating my own layouts in Inkscape, I make separate layers including one for "Knobs" and one for "Drill points" among many others (internal parts, lettering, background, etc). You can easily allign the drill points with the (Pedal Vector Pack) knob locations (SHIFT + CTRL + A) so they are centered and you can see how the layout will look before hand. When you are ready to print (if using waterslides or decals) you simply hide the "Knobs" layer and your drill points will be right where you need them. I just use a small red circle as my drill point and duplicate as many as I need. Works for me.
If you are designing your own PCB you can simply measure the pot to pot distance and even recreate that in Inkscape.
I just got a drill press recently. I am about to drill enclosure number three. This may be obvious, but I discovered that the templates for a 1590b will not quite be the same when drilling a painted 1290 from Pedal Parts Plus. Similar enclosures, but slightly different.
Importing PDF templates into Inkscape and then designing your art around this is what I do. Exactly the same as some of the replies above.
I also have some drilling templates from Mammoth Electronics and this helps me with designing art for 1590B boxes.
I have used about 5 or 6 different laser printers (I don't own one) and have always had good results. You will need to look at your printer settings and make sure that you are printing at "100%" or "no page scaling". Make sure that your printer is not set for "fit to page" or "shrink to page" or any other settings similar to this.
Some printers use software that has many settings and some of these might be embedded within several layers of menus! Pick the settings that will not 'distort' your original template. You will need to read the instructions for your printer (nowadays most likely in PDF format) to see what these settings are.
It really sounds like a scaling issue. I print everything from adobe directly, scaling off. Printer settings don't usually work from me, even if I set scaling off there. The template border is usually a little small for the enclosure, just center it. But if the centerpoints for all the pots are too close that still points to a scaling issue. I can say the ZPSDX template worked for me just fine, frankly I don't know how I would have done that pedal without the template. It was a very snug fit in that enclosure.
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb321/bitracer/Pedals/ZeroPointSDX/02c1b027-3ed8-41d9-873b-1fc79f2f6a35_zps44c148bf.jpg) (http://s1200.photobucket.com/user/bitracer/media/Pedals/ZeroPointSDX/02c1b027-3ed8-41d9-873b-1fc79f2f6a35_zps44c148bf.jpg.html)
1. That's Star Trek theming. I LOVE IT!
2. Yeah, it's more of a trial and error sort of process than you'd imagine. You have to print, test, make notes on what to adjust. Adjust, print again, test, make more notes. Sometimes it's in the printing, sometimes it's in the actual designing.
Jacob
Yep, what he said.
For certain things I have templates. For really custom stuff it's trail and error. If you find the build report for the Black Lagoon it goes through how much I change things before I finally get the drill out.
Lots of good advice here.
I lay out a drill template in Illustrator (Inkscape would work fine as well).
I recommend buying an inexpensive set of calipers; they are invaluable for double checking the spacing on the actual PCBs with board mount pots.
I use PowerPoint for graphics and hole placement. Draft copies get taped to a piece of cardboard and I then I cut out the holes with an xacto knife and mount everything. I do a lot of measuring twice to drill once. Doing the layout on cardboard helps with 3D so you can see where problems might occur with interference and such.
Set Square, Eye, Guess work, Sharpie Marker, Circular File for mistakes ;) ;D
Not had an un-useable enclosure from it and have made some tight fits! This is with board mounted pots, but I do measure and check a lot... not the best way really.
Started experimenting with the Express PCB files i've made now to measure by mm with a cross grid and print it with datasheet part outlines, not tried it yet though as I gave my printer away but seems sound.
I think even if you don't use express PCB it could be a viable option just for templates.
I use vinyl sticker for my graphics, they're very scratch resistant. I sometimes include the drill template in the artwork. Put on the sticker and drill on.
I've started drilling the holes a bit over sized so I have some room for adjustment. I convert the image to PDF, this helps a lot with the printing usually. Then I test fit everything together in Photoshop.
There's always the T-Handle Reamer if your hole is slightly off.
Quote from: drezdn on July 28, 2013, 06:50:27 PM
There's always the T-Handle Reamer if your hole is slightly off.
Sorry, but this just sounds so............ wrong? I'm so glad no holes were 'slightly off' on my last build! ;D
Paul
The best part of this thread is hearing that others share my difficulties with drilling. My excuse is that I don't own a drill press, or padded vice, or the space in which to place those tools.
Keep on filin'
I don't ever use a template. I cover the enclosure in painters tape and then use a ruler a T-Square and a pencil to mark it up.
I've recently stopped using a 7mm drill bit fot the pots and instead using the 8mm part of my step drill. Gives me a chance to move the pots around slightly and they always line up perfecrly now. That was always the worse part of a build for me, and if the pots weren't perfect the box went on the scrap heap and I tried again!
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Quote from: jimilee on July 08, 2013, 03:05:40 PM
Dremel. Dremel fixes everything!
Here is something I found this weekend at a yardsale for $10
(http://www.thestrong.org/online-collections/images/Z001/Z00155/Z0015540.jpg)
Also got a mortising kit by craftsman and a set of bits with the Drill press!