Waterslide decal problems

[gtr2]

I'm having a heck of a time perfecting a waterslide decal process.  I usually don't worry about waterslides but I have a build for someone else in a trade deal...

Here's what I'm using a Brother Lazer Printer and Experts Choice Laser waterslide paper.  In the first attempt I printed then soaked for around 20-30 seconds in warm water.  I started to put it over the enclosure and some of the toner was falling off the decal.  I looked to the net..It was mentioned you should still clearcoat the decal first to protect it.  So I grabbed some clearcoat rustolium and sprayed the decal with two light coats.  I let it dry and then soaked the waterslide and slid it on to the enclosure.  This time the waterslide seemed to have shrunk a bit, more than I was happy with.  I imagine it was the rustolium that caused it to shrink??  I don't know..any help is appreciated.  The waterslide I'm working on now is for my zombii and I was hoping to get it right for my friends glitterattii build...

[madbean]

I've never heard of toner sliding off a decal. I wouldn't think that was possible. With ink, sure, but not toner.

I guess you could try bumping up the size of your image a couple percent to offset the shrinkage. That's all I got!

[gtr2]

I'm thinking on the first run maybe the toner didn't adhere properly because I taped the waterslide paper (only a little bigger than the graphic) to a regular piece of paper to save decal sheets.  This might affect how the paper and toner melt together???

Mike...help!!!

[maysink]

I'll detail my process in a day or so after the post-holiday familial migration.

[madbean]

No, I don't think taping the decal to paper would have an effect. Most likely, it's the decal paper itself. I don't know what brand smallbear carries, but I've never had an issue with theirs.

Or, perhaps your printer is not heating the toner sufficiently to fuse properly. Maybe print the image in reverse, then place that on top of the enclosure and heat it with an iron and a couple of sheets of paper. That might help. I've been meaning to try this method with regular transparency.

[gtr2]

I know some of the guys on the BYOC forum have had success with this brand.  I'm gonna give it a try tonight.  Might be the "budget" laser printer...  If I have the same toner issue I'll take it to work and give it a try on the reliable HP laser.

[crashguitar]

Does the printer have a coated paper setting? I think I used that when I did some waterslide.

[eniacmike]

I have a brother printer and use LAZERTRAN brand water slide decal paper. they sell it at my local craft store (texas art supply). I have also used the lazertran paper with lexmark printers.

I had the problem of toner falling off when I used my moms epson color lazer printer but she uses her printer like crazy so it might have been a problem with her printer, or the color stuff.

I never clearcoat before I put it the decals on, always after.

to save paper I combine projects into half sheets with 3 pedals, then I cut the page in half and run the second batch through the manual feed.

I soak the paper under running water in the sink and rub around till it turns from white to grey then apply the decals, cut out with an xacto knife all the holes.

Then I let it sit for a few hours, or overnight if you are patient enough.

check for air bubbles in good light at different angles.

Then I use:
minwax polyacrylic. cleans up with water, dries in 30 minutes. recoat every 30 minutes. I do about three coats then you can handle it in an hour and assemble the pedal. I let the pedal sit upside down on the knobs and the switches for 24 hours to cure.

I am really impatient and I also don't have a garage so I found the poly acrylic is the best for "living" with the fumes. it smells like roach spray, but doesn't give me headaches.

[maysink]

Great post. I'll add this:

I prefer this type of waterslide decal. I've tried 2 other brands (from ebay) and both were inferior products. Be certain to read the instruction of EACH brand you may try as one brand disintegrated in the luke-warm soaking stage because I did not clear-coat the laser printed decal... The above mentioned brand does not need a clear-coat prior to use although I give it a quick one for greater durability.

Quick aside: I print out an entire sheet of labels at a time and do the quick clear-coat BEFORE I cut the labels to size. This prevents the clear-coat from sealing the decal to the backing paper.

Before applying the decal, I brush on a layer this stuff. It lets the decal slide around with ease and allows it to 'settle' into textured/uneven paint jobs.

Once the decal is positioned, I'll brush on another coat or 2 of the softening solution and then let it dry. Once totally dry I exacto out any holes and then clear-coat the entire enclosure to taste. I use Krylon brand clear-coat spray. I've used Rustoleum (sp?) brand and found it to be too thick--tightening down nuts left impressions in the clear-coat which later cracked. I've also tried another no-name brand clear-coat spray from Michael's Arts & Crafts and it was serviceable but thin--needed extra coats.

I use a brother laser printer--never had any luck with my old epson inkjet.

[gtr2]

Thanks guys!  This is very helpful.  I printed a couple of the decals last night but didn't get a chance to apply them.

Questions for Mike:  Do you cut the holes right after applying the decals?  Do you toaster oven at all, or do you find it dries sufficiently on its own?

Questions for Maysink:  I've used the Krylon brand but it later "cracked"  I may painted it on too thick last time and it took forever to dry...  Do you spray numerous clear coats and bake  it?

Thanks again

Josh

[eniacmike]

I cut the holes right away. I think that is necessary so you can properly get all the bubbles out while it is still wet.

I don't toaster the decals. It makes them curl up and they will turn brown too because the paper is held on with dextrose (sugar).

[maysink]

I do several light coats and no baking. I always forget to look for a crappy toaster oven when I'm in second hand stores. Does the baking really work?

I went to cutting the holes after drying as the softening solution makes the decal slightly gooey and the pressure of the exacto blade piercing the decal sometimes caused the printed area to distort/warp. For air bubbles, I chase them to the edges when I'm applying the softening solution with a brush.

Edit: after the softened decal is dry, moisten a paper towel and dab any excess softening solution off as this will create a resist to the clear-coat resulting in an uneven clear coat.

[CRBMoA]

OMG Erin. Your personal info is killing me.

I just handled a HUGE group buy, and had a ton of emails and confirmations and such. My wife sees all of my correspondence (we have no secrets), and she asked a women's name she saw. I explained that, and I warned her about your name showing up.

Crack me UP!

[maysink]

Nice. If a was a total a-hole I'd call your house and hang up when the wife answered! (joke)

[gtr2]

Update:

Decal printing and application was a success!  I think I may have been handling it too rough and that caused my toner issues.  I guess I have to be careful after it's applied as well because I wiped it with a tack cloth before clear coating and I wiped a slight bit of the toner off.  But I believe it is actually really taking off the really thin decal bits instead.  I think my waterslide must be a little thinner than other brands.  I'm currently between coats with the polycrylic spray, It seems I had to go on heaver with the spray to get an even finish.  Mike was right when he said this stuff dries fast!  We'll see how it turns out...

Josh