not another pork barrel troubleshooting thread! Need advice...[Huzzah! Fixed!]

Started by miter53, February 09, 2014, 01:23:56 AM

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miter53

Okay, I'm ready for some help. The output is completely dry. Inspected and reflowed all (I think!) the pads. LED varies in intensity and rate as expected. I swapped the 3007 for a tested one, but only have the one 3101 on hand. The voltages seem funny on 2 and 4. Any suggestions? I'll post some pix in a bit.

TL062
1: 0.67 - 8.5
2: 4.4 - 4.8
3: 2.5 - 6.4
4: 0
5: 4.4 - 4.8
6: 4.8
7: 2.5 - 5.6
8: 9.19

JRC4558D
1: 6.83
2: 6.83
3: 6.83
4: 0
5: 6.83
6: 6.83
7: 6.83
8: 9.19

MN3101
1: 9.19
2: .001 ??
3: 0
4: .001 ??
5: 0.67
6: .001
7: 6.5
8: 1.2 drifts towards 0

MN3007
1: 9.19
2: .001
3: 6.09
4: 1.2 drifts towards 0
5: 0
6: 6.53
7: 6.83
8: 6.83
"Only sick music makes money today."-Friedrich Nietzsche
My photography website: http://michaelteresko.com/

miter53




Pay no attention to the disconnected in/out wires...
"Only sick music makes money today."-Friedrich Nietzsche
My photography website: http://michaelteresko.com/

jkokura

Do you have a probe? Are you getting output on the BBD?

Jacob
JMK Pedals - Custom Pedal Creations
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Scruffie

I very much doubt it as it has no clock to work with.

You were right to suspect the MN3101, it's way off, rest looks fine.
Works at Lectric-FX

Clayford

Yup - and damn.
Dale  mil-spec resistors
Wima box caps
Sprague caps
milled sockets
Highend replacement for the tl062...

And none of us managed to use sockets on the trannys when we built them. Get a replacement MN3101 and she should fire right up!

head solder jockey, part time cook: cranky&jaded

mattlee0037

What are the resistors that look like Dales but have the regular bands on them? Are those also Dales?

Clayford

I think? This thing is (almost)ready for war! I like it. I prefer cheaper parts than he's chosen here but man it's nice.
head solder jockey, part time cook: cranky&jaded

miter53

Those are Dales too. They're not too pricey in quantity from Mouser and/or Allied. I usually figure parts for the most part are pretty cheap compared to the time spent building. Although I did try to go cheap-ish on the ICs. Got both the MNs from Doctor Tweek in the UK. I've ordered a 3101 from SB now lol...we will see what happens! Thanks all.
"Only sick music makes money today."-Friedrich Nietzsche
My photography website: http://michaelteresko.com/

Govmnt_Lacky

#8
Last ditch effort...

From the looks of your pics, it looks like your 3101 is not fully seated in the socket. Especially the Pin 1-4 side. Look there.

Also... since it is presumed dead anyways... try lifting Pin 4 of the 3101 out of its socket and reinsert with all the other pins making contact and see if you get anything. I once had a problem with a CE2 build and I read somewhere that lifting Pin 4 of the 3101 could fix it..... and it did!

Give these both a try and let us know.  ;)

EDIT: Yes... Scruffie is correct below. It is Pin 8 of the 3101. Try lifting Pin 8.

Scruffie

I didn't mean to imply the chip was definitely dead, merely that's where the issue lies so yes give lacky's ideas a go, I too remember the pin lifting 'trick' but I don't think it was pin 4 as that's a clock pulse we need... not sure which pin it was... probably 6, 3 or 8.

And you've checked it's all soldered nicely? I did wonder about pin 8 dropping, that should be the V.Ref pin so I wonder if C12 is soldered correctly too or if it is just the 3101.
Works at Lectric-FX

miter53

Fwiw, touched up C12 pads, tried lifting pins 4, 6, 3 and 8 in turn, no change.
"Only sick music makes money today."-Friedrich Nietzsche
My photography website: http://michaelteresko.com/

Clayford

head solder jockey, part time cook: cranky&jaded

miter53

"Only sick music makes money today."-Friedrich Nietzsche
My photography website: http://michaelteresko.com/

Clayford

head solder jockey, part time cook: cranky&jaded

icecycle66